COMMUNITY COMMENTARY:

I have a bone to pick with Donna Huffaker Evans’ review of Steve’s Burgers (“Beefy competition among burgers,” Aug. 1). I don’t think it’s possible to judge three burgers fairly, or accurately, by eating a couple of bites, driving to the next chosen burger joint, nibbling again, and finally, chowing down in the confines of one’s vehicle. What kind of review can you give to any one of these burgers? Not a good one, I can assure you.

I confess I’ve never had a burger from the Great White Hut or Senior Nacho, but I have had one from Steve’s Burgers, and they’re beyond delicious. In fact, they’re addicting. Steve’s Burgers is one of Burbank’s delightful hidden treasures.

I remember the first time I smelled the delectable aroma wafting across the street from Steve’s. I was about to enter the 99 Cent store when my nostrils cracked to attention and were intent upon finding the source of the irresistible charbroiled aroma. My stomach belied my hunger, and I was drawn to Steve’s like a parched desert dweller to a mirage.

From my first bite and my first visit to Steve’s, I’ve been a devotee. I’ve been relishing their fine food for years. The food is always fresh and expertly cooked. The portions are generous, and the prices are reasonable.

During the busy lunch rush, there are UPS and FedEx drivers, city employees, construction workers, office workers, hungry moms with kids and average Joes seeking their Steve’s fix. The place fills up fast, and it’s often hard to see people’s faces, as weighty burgers so completely obscure them.

Steve has shared his culinary skills with our community for nearly 20 years. His Asian-influenced dishes are sensational as well. Often, after a very busy day and too weary to cook dinner, I’ve stopped off at Steve’s for a chicken bowl. This meal is worth every penny of its $4.85 price.

When Evans attempted to review Steve’s Burgers, she spent more time quibbling about the signage out front and the choices on the menu than she did actually reviewing the food. Three bites of a burger do not make a review. Let’s be fair.

This past year has been a difficult one for many of us and for many businesses. I’ve had to ration my visits to Steve’s. I know Steve is feeling the pinch too. I would hate to think a half-hearted “review” of his fantastic burgers might affect his bottom-line. This man labors over each and every creation, and frequently I thank him personally for an unforgettable meal. The comment by Evans that Steve’s burger tasted like a Whopper from Burger King is unfathomable and nothing more than a writer’s easy cop-out.

I think it’s irresponsible to negatively review an establishment without really trying the food. I suggest Evans return to Steve’s and give them a fair shot. It’s not really a food fight if you’re not fully armed.

?PAMELA LANG is a Burbank resident.