Head to this California city for the gigantic sequoias. Stay for its unexpected charms
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Even though Visalia holds the title of being the oldest city in the San Joaquin Valley, it’s more likely a place you’ve passed through on your way to visit General Sherman or the infamous carved Tunnel Log. Many Angelenos don’t even know how to properly pronounce its name.
But Visalia (say it: vai-SAY-lee-uh) — a place long known as “the gateway to the Sequoias” for its proximity to Sequoia and Kings Canyon national parks — is becoming a destination in its own right.
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The 151-year-old Central Valley city has been working hard to shed its bucolic stereotypes and reinvent itself as a cosmopolitan oasis with hip boutiques, craft breweries and a revamped downtown. Changes started happening about five years ago when the Darling Hotel opened in the bones of the former 1930s Tulare County Courthouse annex. The Art Deco boutique hotel offers chic accommodations, catering to design-savvy travelers. Nowadays, downtown’s East Main Street, which plays host to tchotchke-laden antique stores and patio dining, is a vibrant, walkable hub. At First Friday Downtown Art Walks, people can groove to a steady playlist of popular tunes thanks to a speaker system the city installed along the sidewalks. And although its Chinatown has been dismantled for years, many Chinese restaurants and a sizable Asian population remain, along with some of the community’s original Asian-inspired architecture along Main Street.
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With farmlands nearby, farmers markets are held not once, but twice a week in Visalia’s downtown area, while local farms offer pick-your-own visits and plenty of restaurants make use of the local and seasonal produce at their disposal (seek out the honey glazed shrimp made with locally grown walnuts at Canton Restaurant as well as the berry pies and fruit preserves at the Vintage Press Restaurante).
Counterculture types will find respite at music and vintage store Velouria Records, cult film fans can catch free and low-cost screenings at the historic Visalia Fox Theater and paranormal-enthusiasts can chase spirits on ghost tours or late-night jaunts to the notoriously haunted Visalia Public Cemetery. There is even an extensive underground tunnel system — once used to operate gambling joints and opium dens — that still exists below downtown. Some people still find their way into them — those who aren’t deterred by massive spiders or trespassing charges, that is.
The city comes together for annual events, such as the twice-yearly downtown Wine Walk, the culinary extravaganza Taste of Visalia or the wintertime tradition Candy Cane Lane Parade, which celebrates its 79th anniversary this month. Also notable: Visalia became the first city in the United States to be designated a Certified Autism Destination in 2022, training at least 80% of its guest and public-facing staff in autism and sensory disorders.
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As the city continues shucking its former reputation as a drive-by dot on the map, SoCal residents seeking a weekend escape only a few hours away would do well to take note. There is plenty of natural beauty to be found in the area, and one doesn’t have to drive into the higher elevations of the Southern Sierra Nevada Mountains to get some adventure time in. Rent a boat or a kayak at nearby Lake Kaweah, strap on a helmet and do some whitewater rafting in Three Rivers or wander through preserved wetlands that have been untouched for centuries.
It might not be the first place on your California vacation bucket list, but Visalia is worthy of a visit — and with its rapidly changing cityscape, will likely have more to offer with each passing year.
Relax under oak trees at Mooney Grove Park
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Nature enthusiasts can dine alfresco at the covered picnic tables or try to spot some of the local wildlife, including Indian peafowls, California ground squirrels, Western toads and American bullfrogs. The pond is stocked with trout (so bring fishing poles) and a 1.8-mile loop trail welcomes runners, walkers and cyclists. There’s an 18-hole disc golf course as well as a playground and dog park.
With free admission, the Tulare County Museum complex — consisting of the main museum, the History of Farm Labor and Agriculture Museum and the outdoor Pioneer Village — showcases antique fashion, historic weaponry and farming machinery, Native American baskets and a historic one-room schoolhouse.
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Shop for small-batch salves and tonics at Organic Apothecary & Communitique
Regulars also flock to the shop for immune-system-fortifying tonics, infused vinegars, tea blends and traditional herbs sold by the gram. As a small-batch distiller, Lancaster also makes essential oils and hydrosols from rare and aromatic plants she grows in her organic-certified home garden.
Serendipitously, the apothecary’s 133-year-old corner storefront, located off East Main Street, is in the same unit that housed one of California’s first pharmacies, Old Drug House, in the mid-1800s.
Make a stop at Barrelhouse Brewing Co. on a Main Street bar hop
A newer addition — one that has given Main Street’s nightlife scene a much-needed boost — is Barrelhouse Brewing Co. Located in an old warehouse that opens to the street, this brewery is popular for its year-round staples, specialty drafts and event calendar that’s packed with activities such as live music, trivia, bingo, line dancing and vinyl swaps. The dog-friendly establishment, which regularly hosts food trucks and allows outside food, also has vintage arcade games like pinball, hockey foosball and table shuffleboard.
If you’re making it a night of bar hopping — and why not? — don’t miss Brewbakers Brewing Co., one of the city’s oldest establishments, serving house beers, homemade flavored sodas and pub grub — including a double-chocolate stout brownie — in wood-panneled booths lit by Tiffany-style pendant lights. (See if you can spot the mermaid perched in the rafters.)
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Elevate your mood at Component Coffee Lab
While the baristas here will gladly serve you a drip coffee, pour over, Gibraltar or “flash brew” (their version of iced coffee), don’t ignore the specialties, like the espresso tonic or whatever seasonal flavored latte is on the menu (right now, there’s a Mexican-inspired atole latte spiced with cinnamon and vanilla). Component is both a popular breakfast spot — many customers come specifically for the sprouts-topped avocado toast, decadent brioche sandwich and myriad egg dishes — and a great place to bring a laptop and get some work done. There’s outdoor seating and a covered patio, but the earthy vibes are strongest indoors, where the blond wood paneling, brick walls and proliferation of indoor plants take center stage. The shop has locations in nearby Tulare and Fresno’s hipster Tower district and offers a home delivery coffee bean subscription.
Enjoy a classy meal at the Vintage Press Restaurante
Come for a Sunday brunch and munch on a three-tiered tea tray brimming with pastries, local fruit and homemade butters and jams that come complimentary before every meal. At a popular monthly event called Recipe Club, head chef David Vartanian, who co-owns the restaurant with his brother Greg, hosts a cooking demonstration before serving up a multicourse meal. It’s a solid deal for a celebratory occasion: The $75 cost of January’s lunch includes your meal, paired wine from the cellar and an intimate, interactive discussion with David.
With its commitment to using only fresh, seasonal ingredients, the Vintage Press’ menu changes often, which is part of the fun. That blackberry crisp you devoured after your dinner last week might be replaced with a cherry crisp the next.
Keep sight of the goal (and your beer) at SoccerCity 1852
SoccerCity has netted indoor and outdoor fields and also runs soccer leagues with divisions ranging from a recreational co-ed “Sunday Funday” to men’s and women’s Division 1.
But even those without cleats can come to the spot to watch a game, rent the field for a private party or enjoy any of the dozen-plus craft brews on tap. Make sure to try the hazy IPA “Golden Goal,” which won a gold medal in the Juicy IPA category at the Great American Beer Festival in 2023.
Boat, paddle or kayak across Lake Kaweah
Since 1964, the family-owned Kaweah Marina has been renting out boats, kayaks, paddle boards and aqua cycles on the scenic lake. In 2022, founder Dale Mehrten, who grew up on the property the lake currently sits on before it was filled with water, replaced and expanded the business’s original wood marina to more than twice its size after it was decimated by a winter storm. Mehrten’s daughter and son-in-law now own the marina, and they plan to pass the business on to their son in the coming years.
You can rent a fishing pole and buy tackle at the shop to catch bass, crappie, bluegill, trout or catfish. Dogs are welcome too. There’s a beach up the lake called Slick Rock for those who prefer stationing themselves on land.
Catch a show at the historic Visalia Fox Theatre
Part of a former chain of early-20th century movie theaters, the theater is now a nonprofit 501(c)3 organization committed to preserving the historic elements of its East Indian-themed building. Listen to the music of an original 1916 Wurlitzer organ and look up at the illuminated star features on the ceiling, which are still fully operational.
Of course, there have been plenty of upgrades through the years. The theater got a full state-of-the-art sound system installation in late 2023 and recently acquired a new laser projector to enhance the audio-visual experience.
The calendar features both contemporary musicians and comedians regularly as well as nostalgia-fueled events like Beatles and Amy Winehouse tribute shows, big band concerts and a cocktail speakeasy paired with four Edgar Allan Poe stories.
Hunt for vinyl at Velouria Records
Of course, it’s a record store first and foremost, but current owners Adam Furtado and Tawnya Zito say the 17-year-old shop strives to be a safe haven for exploring both music and self-expression. Music-wise, Velouria prides itself on having “something for everyone,” whether that’s new releases, iconic greats (think Miles Davis or Led Zeppelin) or obscure cuts in their bargain bin. For both quality control and to satisfy their curiosity, Furtado and Zio play every single vinyl on the shop’s record player before putting it on their shelves. Doing this also helps them become better acquainted with the music, as many customers come in looking for recommendations and referrals.
In addition to vinyl, Velouria sells vintage men’s and women’s clothing, used books, posters, pins, CDs, tapes and record cleaning supplies. Their biggest event of the year is Record Store Day in April, which the shop starts preparing for come Jan. 1. With special releases and can’t-miss deals, it’s such a big deal that lines often form around the block before the shop even opens.
Dine at Canton Restaurant in Visalia’s former Chinatown
The restaurant is popular for its shrimp with honey walnut (using walnuts grown in the Central Valley), pan-fried pot stickers and orange chicken made with three fried chicken breasts served sliced, not cubed. Another popular dish, which might have originated at this restaurant, is the spicy fish made with flaky sea bass lightly coated in Japanese Panko crumbs. With its proximity to downtown’s bars and breweries, as well as the Regal Visalia movie theater next door, Canton is the go-to spot for larger parties looking to eat family-style at circular tables using the traditional lazy Susan.
Pick organic blueberries in the summer at Big L Ranch
A grassy lawn bordering the Lower Kaweah River makes for an excellent spot to relax and munch on local bakery goods, cold drinks and sandwiches sold at their snack stand. The riverside property is also populated by numerous wildlife, such as great blue herons, mallards, Canada geese and sandhill cranes. When picking berries, keep an eye out for our state bird, the California quail, which has taken up residence in the cover of the blueberry fields.
Big L Ranch reopens during the fall to host harvest markets and the occasional Christmas celebration, and is also available for private events.
Revel in the small-town spirit at nearby Exeter
But there’s another retail element at play in Exeter epitomized in the handfuls of new boutiques specializing in sleek, high-design products. In addition to its tightly curated rack of secondhand pieces, Common Goods Vintage is a minimalist home-goods store stocked with earth tone handmade ceramics, woven baskets and natural wood items. Adorn yourself in velvet scarves, linen palazzo pants and folksy jewelry from Main Street Exeter or redecorate your space with coastal California-inspired decor from Sanctuaire Interiors.
Perhaps in a nod to the town’s European namesake, this small town with a population of just over 10,000 has not one but two charming French restaurants. Cafe Lafayette, which regularly receives praise for its whole roasted chicken cordon bleu and French onion soup, stands out for its romantic brick patio with bistro seating and string lights. Known for rich, sumptuous dishes, like lobster ravioli, brie with lavender honey and an assortment of pies, Monets Wine Bistro has more of a neighborly atmosphere, along with a compendious wine list and their own lavender coffee bean blend.
Whether you come here to shop or dine, make sure to take in the more than 30 murals painted around the town. Depicting historic and cultural scenes from the area, the artworks give Exeter dual status as both a small-town and grand-scale outdoor art gallery.
Spend the night in style at the Darling Hotel
Cool off in the outdoor swimming pool fed by spouting water fountains and escape the sun on chaise lounges shaded by striped umbrellas. The heart of the operation is Elderwood, the hotel’s fine dining restaurant and cocktail bar. Located on the top floor with sweeping views of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, it claims the title of being Visalia’s only rooftop eatery, although the cobalt blue club chairs and speakeasy vibes of its interior are not to be missed either.
Experience undisturbed natural beauty at the Kaweah Oaks Preserve
The preserved wetlands and woodlands span more than 300 acres westward toward the Sierra Nevada foothills and begin only a short 10-minute drive from downtown Visalia. Those en route to the towns of Exeter or Three Rivers will pass by the entrance to this park on their drive.
This prairie oasis, which received conservancy status in the early 1980s, offers multiple trails that loop and meander through groves of Valley Oaks, past thickets of blackberry bushes and tangled wild grapevines and along minnow-filled creekbeds lined with Sycamores. Hydrology fans might also get a kick out of the irrigation dams constructed to control flooding in the area.
The preserve is a popular spot for picnicking, bird-watching, photography, field trips and community events. More than anything, the preserve is an opportunity to escape urban sprawl and enjoy the untouched beauty of nature. The mostly flat terrain lends itself well to baby strollers, and dogs are allowed on leash. Hemlock and poison oak also call this woodlands home, so don’t stray far from the well-maintained paths.