A Priceless Cookbook

It never occurs to me to go to a bookshop to purchase a cookbook, unless I am giving one as a gift. Because I read cookbooks like others read novels, I would break my budget and my bookcases if I allowed myself the luxury of impulsive cookbook shopping.

Instead, I check out cookbooks from the library, read them and occasionally try a few recipes. It is a clear signal to me, when I am renewing a borrowed cookbook for the third or fourth time, that I have found one that is a keeper.

I’m on my third renewal period with “Perfect Recipes for Having People Over” by Pam Anderson, so you know it’s a book I’m sure to own soon. Anderson’s first cookbook, “Perfect Recipes,” won a Julia Child Award.

A former executive editor for Cook’s Illustrated, Anderson knows how to format a recipe. If you’ve tasted a dish at someone’s house and asked the hostess for her recipe, she’s likely to give you a few bits of advice that are not in the written recipe. You’re also a step ahead, having seen and tasted the finished product.

When faced with a new recipe, you don’t know exactly how it should taste nor have you seen someone else prepare or serve it. I love recipes with extensive directions, photos or illustrations. Don’t you like to know how long you can prepare a recipe ahead of time, what other dishes it might match, acceptable shortcuts or leftover suggestions?

This is the first cookbook I have come across where the author has answered four or five extra questions for almost every recipe. Anderson includes a raft of helpful notes underneath the recipes. This additional information pleased me immensely.

Most good cooks feel competent and comfortable when cooking in small quantities, for a family meal or a few guests; they rarely consult a recipe for everyday food preparation. I never delve into my recipe collection for these occasions. However, when faced with serving a larger group, I invariably need a recipe. I want a recipe with the quantities of ingredients correctly adjusted for additional servings. The dish should be festive without challenging the less adventurous eater.

Anderson’s choices for entertaining are sure to please everyone. She’s covered the classics, adding modern twists without foolish trendy frills. Anderson also includes a raft of side dishes, garnishes, sauces and variations.

For example, after the basic recipe for Quesadillas for a Crowd, Anderson takes the simple cheese and flour tortilla into comfortable territory. She offers goat cheese, olives and red onions or quesadillas made with crab, scallions and cream cheese. How about quesadillas with zucchini, green chilies and string cheese or a shrimp-feta mixture?

Anderson suggests serving chicken chili, carnitas or chicken soup with Southwestern flavors before baking the quesadillas. All the fillings can be prepared ahead of time and refrigerated.

The book is divided into four categories of main dishes—those for kitchen gatherings, outdoor affairs, dining room dinners and breakfasts for company. Then she adds appetizers, soups, salads, side dishes, breads, simple desserts and drinks.

I found the drinks section valuable. Here Anderson sticks to the popular favorites, nothing new or different, but the techniques for preparation and the ingredient quantities insure that your guests enjoy a tasty drink with minimum effort on the host’s part. Unless you hire a professional bartender, serving a large group of people can be daunting. Keeping the cocktail hour manageable can make a big difference in the overall success of your party. Both Anderson’s make-ahead margaritas and pitcher of mojitos pack plenty of flavor without leaving your guests reeling. Her version of non-alcoholic Bloody Mary mix is nearly identical to mine, so I know it will be a hit with your kids and teens.

I don’t recommend the book’s Yorkshire pudding. It can be modified into a super bake-ahead popover recipe. Use it that way; skip the Yorkshire version.

In her introduction to the cookbook, Anderson recalls a recent mini-family reunion that suddenly shifted to a day earlier than scheduled. Anderson, who likes to prepare ahead of time, was caught up in a whirlwind of panicky last minute cooking. Her relatives took pride in helping fix the meal. She says she prefers not to preside over that kind of dinner party often, but it reminded her that having people over is a selfless act.

“Even if things aren’t perfect … people appreciate your gift of time and self. As much as I care about food, dinners like that remind me that the food is not the ultimate point — the people are. And when I remember that, it is much easier to have people over,” she concludes.

With a copy of “The Perfect Recipes for Having People Over,” chances of making a perfect meal will increase, along with your enjoyment of the time spent with your treasured guests.