Chadaka’s food leaves our critic tongue-Thai’d
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Bill Scollon
Recently, I was trying to tell a friend about a new restaurant. I was
so enthusiastic, I couldn’t get the words out fast enough. I was
tongue-Thai’d.
The reason for my excitement? Chadaka Thai, a new addition to
Downtown Burbank. There’s no shortage of Thai restaurants in the
area, but this one stands above the rest. As soon as you enter
Chadaka, you can tell you’re somewhere special.
The owners have created a casual and elegant space that is
anchored by a semicircular bar topped with a translucent Buddha. Soft
music and heavenly aromas heighten the expectation of a transcendent
dining experience. Good news, you will not be disappointed.
Don’t skip the appetizers; they are extraordinary. The fresh
spring rolls, not fried, are savory and come with hoisen peanut
dipping sauce that is a real palate pleaser. The steamed wonton
bundles, stuffed with chicken and shrimp, are also particularly
delicious. The spicy soy sauce imparts a salty-sweet spiciness that
is unlike anything I’d had before.
Paired with a martini from Chadaka’s inventive cocktail menu, or a
selection from their international wines and beers, several
appetizers would make for a wonderful meal.
But then you’d be denying yourself the many pleasures that await
you on the rest of the menu. The green pear salad, for example, was
exquisite. Fresh pear is tossed with roasted cashews, chilled shrimp
and a chili-lime dressing. The result is a blend of delicate and
tangy flavors with just a little heat.
The pad Thai, a very popular Thai dish, was also very good. Soft
rice noodles were stir-fried with shrimp, chicken, bean sprouts and
peanuts.
If you like curry, you will not go wrong with the panang. Beef or
chicken simmered in coconut cream with spicy red curry, sliced
jalapenos and basil. How inventive! How flavorful! How can I share it
with anyone else? It’s that good.
Well, if your dining partner has ordered the garlic prawns, it’s
an even trade. The prawns are cooked perfectly, with a bit of salt
and topped with garlic, pepper and cilantro. They have a wonderfully
piquant flavor.
The only less-than-perfect dish I tried was the pineapple shrimp
fried rice. I could barely discern the pineapple and played
hide-and-seek with the cashews.
Trust me though, out of the dozen or so dishes I sampled (not all
in one sitting, mind you), this was the only weak spot.
If you can, save room for dessert. The traditional mango and
sticky rice was interesting and worth a try. But the coconut flan was
simply out of this world.
So next time you’re asked for a restaurant suggestion, just
remember this tongue-twister: “Gotta Try Chadaka Thai.”
* BILL SCOLLON is a Burbank resident and president of Scollon
Media Arts. You can reach him at ewscollonhotmail.com.