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Chadaka’s food leaves our critic tongue-Thai’d

Bill Scollon

Recently, I was trying to tell a friend about a new restaurant. I was

so enthusiastic, I couldn’t get the words out fast enough. I was

tongue-Thai’d.

The reason for my excitement? Chadaka Thai, a new addition to

Downtown Burbank. There’s no shortage of Thai restaurants in the

area, but this one stands above the rest. As soon as you enter

Chadaka, you can tell you’re somewhere special.

The owners have created a casual and elegant space that is

anchored by a semicircular bar topped with a translucent Buddha. Soft

music and heavenly aromas heighten the expectation of a transcendent

dining experience. Good news, you will not be disappointed.

Don’t skip the appetizers; they are extraordinary. The fresh

spring rolls, not fried, are savory and come with hoisen peanut

dipping sauce that is a real palate pleaser. The steamed wonton

bundles, stuffed with chicken and shrimp, are also particularly

delicious. The spicy soy sauce imparts a salty-sweet spiciness that

is unlike anything I’d had before.

Paired with a martini from Chadaka’s inventive cocktail menu, or a

selection from their international wines and beers, several

appetizers would make for a wonderful meal.

But then you’d be denying yourself the many pleasures that await

you on the rest of the menu. The green pear salad, for example, was

exquisite. Fresh pear is tossed with roasted cashews, chilled shrimp

and a chili-lime dressing. The result is a blend of delicate and

tangy flavors with just a little heat.

The pad Thai, a very popular Thai dish, was also very good. Soft

rice noodles were stir-fried with shrimp, chicken, bean sprouts and

peanuts.

If you like curry, you will not go wrong with the panang. Beef or

chicken simmered in coconut cream with spicy red curry, sliced

jalapenos and basil. How inventive! How flavorful! How can I share it

with anyone else? It’s that good.

Well, if your dining partner has ordered the garlic prawns, it’s

an even trade. The prawns are cooked perfectly, with a bit of salt

and topped with garlic, pepper and cilantro. They have a wonderfully

piquant flavor.

The only less-than-perfect dish I tried was the pineapple shrimp

fried rice. I could barely discern the pineapple and played

hide-and-seek with the cashews.

Trust me though, out of the dozen or so dishes I sampled (not all

in one sitting, mind you), this was the only weak spot.

If you can, save room for dessert. The traditional mango and

sticky rice was interesting and worth a try. But the coconut flan was

simply out of this world.

So next time you’re asked for a restaurant suggestion, just

remember this tongue-twister: “Gotta Try Chadaka Thai.”

* BILL SCOLLON is a Burbank resident and president of Scollon

Media Arts. You can reach him at ewscollonhotmail.com.

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