What a great place for a steakout

Bill Scollon

OK. Let’s get this out of the way right up front. The Place for

Steak, despite its unpretentious appearance, is not for the feint of

wallet. It’s priced not terribly far below places like Morton’s. But

if you’re in the mood for great beef in a friendly setting, you might

want to steak your claim here.

The small restaurant is housed in a, well, in a converted house.

The deep rose walls and forest green carpet set off linen-clad

tables. Soothing music plays in the background. The owner, who will

also be your waiter, greets you. He’s very personable and his polite

service and attention to detail reminded me of dining standards of a

bygone age. The Place For Steaks does not serve liquor but they do

have a beer and wine list.

Appetizers feature seafood -- calamari, shrimp cocktail and crab

cakes. The crab cakes come with a buttery brown sauce laced with

lemon. Though a bit on the bready side, they were pretty good.

The Caesar salad, frankly, was a disappointment. An uninspired

bowl of the leafy ends of romaine lettuce leaves topped with quite

ordinary dressing. For a restaurant that aspires to such a high

caliber, they should know that a good Caesar is made with hearts of

romaine and a dressing that is prepared tableside.

In fairness, the restaurant is not called The Place For Salads.

Steaks are, of course, why you’re there. And happily, they’re

excellent. My charbroiled rib eye was tender and expertly prepared to

a perfect medium rare. It was well marbled without being fatty and

nicely trimmed. (Though I was tempted to order the Cajun version, I

just couldn’t bring myself to pay 50% more.)

Also excellent was the rack of lamb. Again, it was expertly cooked

to order and featured a savory rosemary sauce. The menu also includes

filet mignon, New York strip and Beef Wellington.

For non-meat eaters, there are several chicken, pasta and fish

selections, including lobster. Meals are served with a choice of

baked or garlic mashed potatoes, steak fries or rice pilaf.

And, of course, the seemingly obligatory mixed steamed vegetables

come with the meal. (How I wish restaurants would come up with more

inspired side dishes!)

There are a few desserts offered for those that can manage it, but

they are not prepared on the premises.

Bottom line is that if you have a healthy bottom line and a

hankering for a steak on a par with the best in an unpretentious

setting with solicitous service, The Place for Steak may just be your

kind of meat-ing place.

* BILL SCOLLON is a Burbank resident and president of Scollon

Media Arts. You can reach him at ewscollonhotmail.com.