Copyright © 2019, Los Angeles Times | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy
Advertisement
Share
News

Divine meal served at Cucina

Cherie Mercer Twohy

Divine Kitchen? A lofty claim, but perhaps there is a cherub flitting

about the kitchen of Divina Cucina, a popular Montrose dining spot.

On a steamy weeknight, the dining room was crowded with convivial

Advertisement

groups beating the barometer with salads, pastas and more. An

enclosed patio offers additional seating. Softly sponge-painted walls

blend from ocher to sunrise yellow, with a flight of angels cavorting

on one end of the ceiling. Racks of wine bottles frame the open

Advertisement

kitchen, where servers bustle with trays of tempting-looking

offerings.

Clever glass carafes on the table offer diners an opportunity to

splash a bit of olive oil and balsamic vinegar on a plate, and dab it

up with soft-yet-crusty rolls with a just-baked aroma. Spicy bread

sticks are a tasty nibble, while menu choices are considered.

Complimentary bruschetti arrive quickly, with vibrant tomatoes

that seem to pulse with flavor.

Advertisement

Divina does soups (dare I say it?) divinely. One soup of the day

was a deeply flavorful cream of artichoke, which managed to balance

creaminess and lightness beautifully.

The nutty artichoke flavor was matched with a lemony under note

that made it a delightful first course. Another evening, carrot soup

was bright in both color and taste, and quite refreshing, even in the

heat ($3.95 cup, $4.95 bowl).

One thing to consider when ordering is serving size. In a word,

Advertisement

huge.

One order of Pollo Preziosa was enough for my dinner, and then for

lunch to share the next day. The dish is a double chicken breast,

pounded fairly thin, and sauteed with a tasty melange of garlic,

rosemary, walnuts and basil in a light cognac-cream sauce ($15.95). A

choice of steamed vegetables or pasta makes for a daunting plate of

food, but every morsel was delicious, even the leftovers.

A portion of Lasagna alla Napoletana was as large as a double

order at another local take-out place. The thin spinach pasta sheets

sheltered a light, meatless filling, which was more fluffy ricotta

than heavy mozzarella, making this a surprisingly good summer choice

($11.75).

Special orders are handled graciously. The Princess Daughter (who

once pronounced “Tomatoes are not in my life!”) asked our server if

she could have the Capellina alla Checca with no tomatoes.

(Sigh ... and the tomatoes here are gorgeous.)

As tomatoes are the heart of this dish, the waitress paused for a

moment, then recovered nicely, and wrote the order as requested. (The

Princess Daughter was delighted with her dish -- garlic and olive oil

dressed pasta with basil ($10.25.) Who has room for dessert? Again,

in service to readers, we shared a dark chocolate heart, encasing

deep raspberry sorbetto. Plated attractively, this frozen treat was a

perfect ending to una notte divina at Divina Cucina.

Kudos: Delicious food in large portions. Lively, friendly

atmosphere.

Quibbles: On a busy evening, tables can be close together. In that

case, make friends with your dining neighbors, and you may discover a

new dish for next time.

* CHERIE MERCER TWOHY teaches cooking in

La Canada Flintridge.

She can be reached at www.chezcherie.com.


Advertisement