A taste of Chicago in Burbank

Those of us who relocated to the West Coast know what it’s like to crave a special dish from back home. Crab cakes from Maryland, cheese grits from South Carolina, pirogies from Cleveland, a salad topped with French fries from Pittsburgh -- whatever. Those who hail from Chicago owe a debt of gratitude to Arlene Mantegna -- wife of actor Joe Mantegna -- who decided to bring a bit of the couple’s hometown to Burbank. The result is the tasty casual restaurant fittingly called Taste Chicago.

Chicago is assuredly a town of great food and this little café is a worthy representative. It starts with the Italian beef sandwich. The thin-sliced beef is drenched in savory juices and served on a soft Italian roll. Sautéed green peppers are the traditional topping, but you can add hot peppers for more zest. The beef was tender, moist and flavorful. A word to the wise -- eat it right away to avoid the bread getting too soggy.

If you’re in the mood for a hot dog, it’s tough to beat their Chicago-style dog. A plump all-beef dog with mustard, relish, tomato and onion. For more of an ethnic kick, try the Maxwell Street Polish sausage graced with mustard and grilled onions. Maybe not the best choice if you have a meeting to go to after lunch!

Sides are limited but scrumptious.

The baked potato wedges are good plain but also come smothered with either cheese or garlic butter. A true guilty pleasure. Taste Chicago also offers the Anisetta, an unusual salad of chopped fennel, parsley, lemon juice and olive oil. Simple and delicious. The salad doesn’t have the strong anise flavor you might expect that comes from dried fennel seeds.

Dinners are both a good bet and a good value.

I especially like the ribs, smoky and tender with a terrific slightly sweet barbecue sauce.

And the meatballs, whether on a sandwich, pasta or as part of the low-carb plate, are firm and gently spiced -- a perfect complement to the restaurant’s marinara sauce.

There are plenty of other tastes worth sampling as well -- thick crust pizza, pasta dishes and desserts including frozen custard and Italian ice.

And while it’s not like actually being in the Windy City, it is nice to know that here on a sun-swept corner in Burbank, you can Taste Chicago.

FYI

WHAT: Taste Chicago

WHEN: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. everyday

WHERE: 603 N. Hollywood Way, Burbank

COST: Lunch $3.55 to $8.75, dinner $7.75 to $15.25

EXTRAS: Catering, take out

PHONE: (818) 563-2800

FAX: (818) 563-2329

WEBSITE: www.tastechicago.biz

* BILL SCOLLON is a Burbank resident and president of Scollon Media Arts. You can reach him at ewscollonhotmail.com.