Glenoaks Deli is deli-cious

What’s in a deli? Well, cold cuts, of course, and sandwiches, definitely. Salads are a plus for a deli, and some sweets are good, especially if they are strategically placed for impulse buying. But a deli is more than the coolers of sodas and beer, Lotto tickets and chips. A good deli’s gotta have a vibe. A great deli’s gotta have heart.

Glenoaks Deli has a big heart ? just ask the many local schools, churches and other fundraisers who rely on the 6- or 8-foot sandwiches or lavish lavosh trays, at lovingly reasonable prices. Just ask the regulars, whose smiles seem to bloom before they walk through the front door. You could probably ask a first-time visitor, as the family members who run the place are so warm and welcoming that it would be hard to feel like a stranger for long.

The love shows through in the food. The sandwich board lists a few dozen possibilities, and the counter help is happy to describe the contents of each sandwich. Most “small” (that’s their term, not mine ? a small is huge!) sandwiches are $4.99, most large (I can’t begin to imagine ? ) are a buck extra. Some sandwiches are deli classics, like roast beef or subs, but lots have a Middle Eastern flair.

All share an emphasis on fresh ingredients. The Mediterranean sandwich boasts a garden of healthful veggies ? red onion, tomatoes, avocado and olives, along with tangy feta and basil on a roll that tastes just-baked. Each component is perfectly ripe and full of flavor.

This sandwich made me think, for a moment, that I could become a vegetarian ? until a friend suggested trying it with some of the deli’s roast chicken. Goodbye, new lifestyle. The chicken is roasted to tender, juicy perfection. (A half chicken, with pita bread, a salad and soda is $7.99) The Middle Eastern sampler would make a terrific picnic at the park or the Hollywood Bowl.

Tender briny dolmades are swaddled in their grape leaves as tightly as a newborn in the nursery. An array of pepperoncini, green and black olives and chunks of not-too-salty feta are terrific finger food, and puffy pita triangles are provided to scoop up smooth hummus and fluffy tabbouleh. The tabbouleh is so full of chopped parsley that the bulgur wheat is almost a garnish.

I hereby confess that I am not such a hummus fan. Usually, I find it quite ho-hum(mus). But this silken spread is a gorgeous texture, and the taste is clean and light, rather than laden with oil. This whole feast will set you back $7.99.

The deli case brims with salads, fresh fetas, olives and string cheeses. The Greek salad is a cool, crisp treat of Kalamata olives, ripe tomatoes and crunchy cucumbers, with an inky vinaigrette that is rich with balsamic vinegar.

FYI

WHAT: Glenoaks Deli

WHEN: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday

WHERE: 621 A E. Glenoaks Blvd., Glendale

COST: $4.99 to 7.99

CONTACT: (818) 956-0613

Give Glenoaks Deli a try for fresh food at great prices. It’s a place where it’s easy to become a regular.