DINING OUT: Food at Rocky’s III packs punch

In the shadow of the Burbank Empire Center lurks an authentic hole-in-the-wall serving up darn good burgers and ice-cold beer.

Well worn, a little cramped and a lot like NASCAR, Rocky’s III is the kind of well-worn place that for some people — like me — is as comfortable as an old pair of jeans. There were once five Rocky’s locations, each numbered accordingly, but this one is the sole survivor. Like a determined boxer, Rocky’s III fights on.

Rocky’s serves lunch to workers at nearby businesses, informed locals and the occasional stray shopper who has wandered over from Lowe’s. The menu is short and to the point — about 15 sandwiches and a few side dishes. But that’s OK because you don’t come here looking for tofu (for that, see my last column). You come to Rocky’s for good, all-American grill food.

Many of the sandwiches are offered in single, double or triple constructions. In the case of the burgers, that means the number of beef patties used. The single is good, but I think the double is more like it. The burgers are of good quality and come with fresh lettuce, tomato, onion and mayo.

Personally, I hold the mayo but then add ketchup and mustard. It’s a mouthful, but juicy and flavorful. Pair it with crisp fries or Rocky’s delicious onion rings, add an ice cold drink and you have the classic comfort-food lunch.

Speaking of classic, the grilled cheese is also terrific. Your choice of bread is perfectly grilled with a generous filling of gooey melted American cheese. Eight slices of cheese to be exact, but if that seems skimpy to you, order it as an artery-bullying double.

Rocky’s special sandwiches include an expertly made patty melt and a grilled chicken sandwich. The patty melt is a burger patty with cheese and grilled onions on grilled rye bread. What makes the one offered by Rocky’s so good is that the onions were perfectly caramelized. And the fresh, grilled rye was crisp and savory.

The chicken sandwich was really the biggest surprise of the items I sampled. A chicken sandwich can be dry and chewy, but not here.

The skinless breast of chicken was moist, plump, tender and delicious. It was set in a large, fresh roll and dressed with lettuce, tomato and onion. I added a bit of barbecue sauce and was very happy. And at Rocky’s you’ll also be happy with the bill. The food is a great value with nearly everything priced under 5 bucks.

Being so close to the strip mall, it’s tempting to break up a shopping trip with a visit to Rocky’s. So the next time you hear, “Honey, I’m going to get some nails. I’ll be about an hour,” just know that probably means 10 minutes at the store followed by a couple of rounds at Rocky’s III.

FYI

WHAT: Rocky’s III Bar & Grill

WHEN: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Friday and 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday

WHERE: 2019 N. Lincoln St., Burbank

COST: $2.85 to $6.50

CONTACT: (818) 843-0227, fax (818) 843-1140