DINING OUT:Fusion at its best at Zen Asian Bistro

Montrose is Glendale as it was, and as it should be. People walk there and people talk there. The pace is gentle. There is plenty of free parking, and the whole experience is anchored by tried-and-true eateries ranging from my morning haunt, The City Hall Coffee Shop, to one of my favorite Chinese restaurants in all of California, The Magic Wok. Even better, over the past five years a new wave of restaurants of various cuisines and atmospheres has rolled in.

Zen Asian Bistro is becoming my favorite among them. Its cuisine is Asian fusion. This means dishes with a decidedly Asian base — like traditional Japanese sashimi — blended with techniques from other cuisines. The best examples at Zen Asian Bistro are the seared tuna sashimi with spinach and the Cajun sashimi. Both seem like culinary oxymorons, but both are delightful. The menu is full of contrasts like this, which makes for an interesting culinary experience.

For this column, we asked Dr. Steve and Ann Gupta (college friends who first introduced us to the place a few months ago) to join us. This let us order four entrees guilt-free, and share them, family-style, over steamed white rice. This is great for conversation. Plus, it lets you take in the atmosphere, study the menu, peruse the drinks and enjoy more tastes.

Speaking of atmosphere, Zen Asian Bistro has it. The music, décor, and lighting are soft and smooth, like New Age jazz. We sat at one of the comfortable high-backed booths that line the sides of the deep, high-ceilinged interior. We felt free to talk, without being overheard even by the large group that easily was accommodated on a long table situated down the middle of the room.

The service was attentive, yet unobtrusive. There was always someone there when we needed it, but no one hovering. Three different people served us at different times, and all were knowledgeable. There was no problem finding out which dishes could be made without garlic, important because one of us is allergic to it.

The menu was intriguing. A long list of special sakes was joined by a selection of Japanese beers and Korean wines. Appetizers ran from edamame to summer rolls. A variety of curries, salads and noodles complemented a dozen house specialties and a number of vegetarian, chicken, beef and seafood entrees. These were primarily of Thai, Chinese, Indian, Indonesian and Japanese dishes fused with Mexican, French, Cajun and Polynesian influences.

We started with one of house specialties, the Chicken Lettuce Cup ($10). You wrap the filling in crisp lettuce leaves after spooning on a sauce.

The contrast of the chilled lettuce with the hot filling was wonderful and the mildly sweet and simply delicious peanut sauce complemented the finely diced and spiced filling.

Next we moved on to a classic Chinese Broccoli in Oyster Sauce ($9).

The broccoli was al dente, thus fresh, and stir-fried quickly just the way it ought to be. It was laced with shitake mushrooms and featured a few thin peeled vegetable stalks. Crunchy and mild, this dish contrasted well with the others.

To this we added Chicken Panang Curry ($10). The texture was smooth, the tastes an infusion of peanuts and peppers.

Our fourth dish was Beef Phad See Ewe ($12). This was a base of soft rice noodles mixed with tender slices of stir-fired beef and topped with morsels of diced vegetables in a sweet soy-based sauce.

A great meal. We’ll be back.

FYI

WHAT: Zen Asian Bistro

WHERE: 2270 Honolulu Ave., Montrose

WHEN: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 12:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday

COST: $ 15 to $30 per person

CONTACT: (818) 248-9200, Fax (818) 248-9292 or www.zenasianbistro.com