DINING OUT: Ben’s Deli is simply the best for corned beef

I admit it. I am a tough critic when it comes to a corned beef on rye sandwich. I expect not only perfection, but a stack of meat a mile high and the freshest rye bread on the planet. As soon as my car crosses that George Washington Bridge in New York City, it knows to head straight for one of those genuine delicatessens like a St. Bernard sniffing out lost skiers in a snowdrift. Since 1980, Ben’s Delicatessen in Burbank has given us corn beef on rye aficionados a much cheaper and easier-to-find alternative right in our own backyard.

The term “corned beef” originated in 1621, but this traditional delicatessen fare has been a favorite comfort food for generations of Americans. Irish immigrants to America in the late 1800s longed for a more affordable alternative to their native Irish bacon. They finally found a meat similar in taste and texture from their Jewish neighbors in New York City’s Lower East Side. Corned beef, a cut of beef cured in a seasoned brine, was the perfect match for boiled cabbage and potatoes.

Family-owned, Ben’s Delicatessen knows something about traditional delicatessen fare. The corned beef on rye sandwich has been its culinary trademark for 27 years. Do not think for one minute that this is a one sandwich wonder. Ben’s has been voted Burbank’s Best Deli six years in a row. And trust me, it takes more than even a perfect corned beef sandwich to be the best.

From the moment you walk inside Ben’s Delicatessen, you feel welcome. The simple, bright interior with green vinyl and counter seating has that nostalgic feel that never goes out of style. While some restaurants boast their “kid-friendly” menu and surroundings. Ben’s is “community-friendly.” Casual surroundings pay tribute to the past, but the generous portions, home-cooking and affordable prices are the real tribute to a simpler time.

The menu offers a variety of sandwiches from hot corned beef to cold turkey and many classic combinations in between. They also offer classic diner dinner entrees, salads and juicy hamburgers. Side dishes include the old-fashioned potato salad and coleslaw just like Mom used to make to the classic French fries or simple mound of fresh cottage cheese.

Ben’s also has one of the best breakfast menus in Burbank. While they always have breakfast specials, my Mom and I love the classics: eggs, bacon, home fries and toast or a stack of buttermilk pancakes to start our day. Don’t call the calorie police. This is pure indulgence, but once in a while a classic diner breakfast is simply a must-have.

Ron and I stopped by Ben’s one Saturday afternoon after walking through the Burbank farmer’s market across the street. Of course, I had the corned beef on rye. The corned beef was cut thin and piled between two fresh slices of rye bread beside a generous portion of homemade potato salad and a slice of dill pickle. Add a few squirts of spicy brown mustard and you have pure indulgence. I considered saving half of my sandwich for one my infamous midnight snacks, but what can I say? I was overpowered by pure gastronomic joy.

Ron decided to take a lighter approach and ordered the chef’s salad. I could see that despite the generous portion of his salad and variety of flavors, he had sandwich envy. While Ron really enjoyed the salad, I thought it was rather interesting that just a few days later he called and asked if I wanted to go out to lunch ? for a corned beef on rye at Ben’s Delicatessen.

??

FYI

WHAT: Ben’s Delicatessen

WHEN: 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily

WHERE: 271 E. Orange Grove Ave., Burbank

COST: Entrees from $4.50 to $11.75

CONTACT: (818) 846-6227