DINING OUT: It’s a family affair at Tortas Mexico

About 15 years ago, I wrote my first restaurant “review.” Our local paper asked readers to write up their favorite place, and mine was a 300-square-foot shack on a corner in La Cañada Flintridge with a smiling, friendly woman, and the most amazing sandwiches I had ever had.

By now everyone in Los Angeles knows what a torta is, right? It’s even on Wikipedia. Tortas Poncho, the shack in La Cañada Flintridge, became Tortas Mexico, moved, moved again and has steadily grown.

That lovely woman, Mary Abarca, has let her daughter and son-in-law operate the business, and their latest restaurant is the most beautiful yet.

Located in the Indian Springs Mall right by Vons, they have taken a space that was a hair salon back when the first Tortas opened, and made it into a sparkling restaurant with tiled tables, vibrantly colored walls and four flat-screen TVs.

The large menus have eye-popping pictures of the dishes that will make your stomach growl. Energetic Latin pop music plays.

They graciously and quickly pulled together enough tables to fit six of us, and we were seated. The relish tray was packed with jalapenos, pickled carrots and “hot hot hot sauce!” Thick, crunchy chips, sturdy and tasty, are able to handle the spicy, fresh pico de gallo, verde salsa and smoky red sauce. Their mild guacamole is blended smooth like a thick sauce.

They’re still waiting for a license to serve the beer, wine and margaritas that already taunt you from the menu. Darn. For now there are sodas like Coke, bottled Jarritos brand lime, pineapple and orange drinks and fountains flowing with watermelon juice, and creamy, cold, cinnamon-y horchata.

One of our favorites was the Chile Relleno Burrito ($5.69), a cheese-stuffed poblano pepper surrounded by rice and wrapped in a flour tortilla. Lots of good flavors mixed together in a handy package!

My daughter loved the cheese quesadilla because it’s “crispy and really cheesy.”

My son plowed through his Tostada Bowl ($6.50) with chicken, refried beans, cheese, sour cream and pico de gallo and shredded lettuce. “The best part is the bowl is edible.”

Deciding to try something new, I got three enchiladas that were very fresh. I had marinated, shredded beef, moist, shredded tasty chicken and one with a great firm, creamy cheese. I asked for verde, and they were served drowned in a lightly spicy green sauce.

One thing I love is that the portions aren’t huge (and neither are the prices) so you won’t eat yourself stupid.

But what brings us in are the tortas ($5.65 to 5.95). The secret is in the bread — a secret Mary never divulged! The 7-inch, oblong, grilled bread perfectly contains and complements the beans, lettuce, tomato, onions, avocado and jalapenos, if you can handle them. You can have Tres Quesos (three cheese — for you Gringos), Carne Desebrada (shredded beef), Pollo (yes, chicken), even Chorizo (Mexican sausage) and Camaron (shrimp).

The Hawaiiana has ham, pineapple and Panela cheese. Hands down, though, for 15 years our favorite has been the cheesy, meaty Cubana with pork, ham and American and Swiss cheese. I get the jalapenos, but take them off to leave only a little spicy flavoring.

I never manage to leave room for dessert, but they have a nice sampling, from a giant churro ($1.25) and flan ($2.75), to a fruit Pico De Gallo ($3.75) of jicama, pineapple, mango, cucumber, watermelon and chile. The Bionico ($4.95) with strawberries, banana, pineapple, papaya, apple, cantaloupe, granola, raisins and sweet cream sounds fabulous.

You can also get breakfast all day. Items like Huevos Rancheros (corn tortillas, eggs and enchilada sauce), The Mexican Omelet (eggs, ham, onion, tomato and cilantro with cheddar and avocado) and — Caramba! — Chilaquiles Con Huevos (sautéd tortilla chips in salsa topped with eggs, cheese and a side of sour cream) are only $5.49.

Much of their business is still takeout, but stay and sit awhile, if you can. If you can’t, take it back to work and make your co-workers jealous.

Congratulations, Montrose! A wonderful, community-involved family has moved in and brought a great restaurant to the area.

?JOANNA LINKCHORST is a lifelong resident of La Crescenta. She can be reached at Joanna@vveagles.com. ?JOANNA LINKCHORST is a lifelong resident of La Crescenta. She can be reached at Joanna@vveagles.com.