Dining Review: New lounge takes a page from literature

My college-aged kids and I were excited to go to Catcher in the Rye, the new literary-themed restaurant and bar on the Toluca Lake-North Hollywood border. We crack up at a book I have called “Tequila Mockingbird,” containing drink recipes like “The Last of the Mojitos” and “Are you There God, It’s Me, Margarita.” Needless to say, my literature-saturated 20-year old, who’s also copy editor of the UCSB newspaper, had high hopes. She helped me write this article.

We liked a number of things about Catcher, but we also had problems. The first issue was the fact that no one in our party was the target age. Simone and Dashel (her brother) were underage — so no cocktails for them. “The parental units,” says Simone, “although as lively and beautiful as ever (thank you, dear), were too old to appreciate many of the cocktails which essentially aimed to complement liquor with something sweet enough for a 22-year old girl to enjoy.” Honestly, that’s perfect. Who are the quintessential patrons of Catcher? Recent UCLA English major grads looking for a quirky place to get tipsy in style.

And stylish it is, not to mention cozy. With volume-lined bookshelves, big tables for food or board games, and dramatic beveled glass French doors, the place gives off a modern and somewhat industrial feel while still being reminiscent of a mountain lodge. Fittingly, it feels like a writer’s sanctuary. Unfortunately, this vibe was 100 percent ruined by the loud, extremely twangy, modern country music coming through the sound system. Embarrassed as the family was when I asked the waitress to change the music, they admitted to being palpably relieved when it did. I asked for something a writer would listen to. They put on a recent Beatles release. Perfect.

My husband’s and my drinks were tasting better now and the names of them made us smile: Stay Golden Pony Boy, the Raven, Clockwork Orange and Huckleberry Finn. Where the Wild Things Are from the Summer Reading List was our favorite. Fresh watermelon, citrus, basil, mint, ginger, and tequila made a refreshing drink, especially with the spicy Tajin seasoning rim. As my daughter writes, “I’ll admit, as a 20-year old sneaking sips of my parents’ drinks, I would totally come back here in a couple years. I could easily see myself coming here with some of my hipster friends, sipping on a glass of Where the Wild Things Are as we collectively ogle the eye candy that is the waiter/bartender/struggling actor.”

After a while we got what Simone calls, “the drunchies.” Solution? We wisely ordered the Smoked Salmon Stack ($15). This dish is a deconstructed version of everything you want on a bagel, minus the bagel. Smoked salmon, avocado-goat cheese spread, capers, dill, tomatoes and red onion on endive spears. You don’t even need the carbs.

We less wisely chose the Watermelon Feta Salad ($11), a combo of arugula, cucumber, nuts, fruit and cheese as unbalanced as some of their cocktails. The 561 sliders were very tasty with brie and a tiny quail egg on each. However, three 3-inch burgers ($15) do not a family feed.

The most frustrating dish of the night was the Roasted Jalapeno Mac and Cheese. Simone writes, “The experience was probably the worst for my little brother. As a teenage male athlete, he was especially disappointed by the food portions.” (I pointed out that these are bar nibbles but at $15 a pop, that’s hard to justify.) “To me,” she continues, “$12 worth of mac and cheese means either 12 boxes of Kraft or a casserole dish overflowing with crispy-topped gooey pasta heaven. To Catcher, $12 means the taste of liquefied jalapeno Cheetos atop bow-tie pasta in a bowl manageable enough for aforementioned teenage male athlete to scoop up in one hand and stuff into his face in approximately eight seconds.” What can I say? She speaks the truth.

Come to Catcher in the Rye with your book-loving friends for a tall beer ($6) and a Smoked Salmon Stack. Stay for a read-aloud of Salinger or a game of Taboo.

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What: Catcher in the Rye

Where: 10550 Riverside Dr., Toluca Lake

When: Opens daily at 5 p.m.

Prices: Cocktails, $11 to $13; Food for Thought and Side Readings, $11 to $15

Contact: (818) 554-3393, catcherbar.com

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LISA DUPUY has written for Times Community News, Arroyo Monthly and Westways. SIMONE DUPUY has written for The Daily Nexus, Crescenta Valley Weekly and The Falcon.