Dining Review: Service raises the grade

Those of you old enough to remember will recall Delacey’s Club 41 in Old Town Pasadena. It was there for years, the only place in town to get a nice steak and Caesar salad. It closed in 2007, paving the way for a succession of replacement restaurants like the Spitfire Saloon and Cheval Blanc. Luckily none of them changed the interior too drastically because the building has great bones.

Fast forward to 2015, and the newest inhabitant is White Horse (Francophiles will get the pun — Cheval Blanc, monsieur?). My girlfriends and I went there for our annual birthday GNO and were happy to see the fabulous bar (once featured in the 1991 remake of “Father of the Bride”) still in great shape. Some of the red velour booths are still there, some have wisely been taken out for more lounge-y couches and low tables. The beautiful stained glass is still intact and the wood paneling and brass is polished to a sheen.

The new proprietors, who also own the Derby in Arcadia and Carmine’s in South Pas, have added touches of 19th-century bordello — velvet curtains, chandeliers and red-light lamps, along with Kardashian-chic — filigree wallpaper and mirrors. When you throw in the night’s soundtrack of ’50s pop music, it’s all a bit confusing. However, we had a great time and here’s why:

Jason the bartender.

The personable, gracious Jason creates items off the craft cocktail menu with care, making sure it pleases your palate. The Punch 41, a “secret” blend of bourbon, rye and juices is refreshing and delicious, and I still can’t figure out what’s in it. The Esquire features a cabernet reduction in an exquisite, smoky concoction. If nothing interests you on the menu, he’ll craft a stunning cocktail that’s more to your liking. He serves wine with the panache of a sommelier. I can’t imagine him ever getting flustered even with a packed bar.

We moved from the bar to one of the low table lounge areas for dinner. We would have preferred a regular dining table but the main room was too quiet on a Monday night. Besides we wanted to watch passersby at the big windows along De Lacey Street. The food is more like pub fare (small plates, burgers and finger food) so it was fine.

We chose some homemade potato chips ($4) to start. These are really fun, super light and crispy and made from little potatoes. We tried the house favorites for dinner, the Fine Irishman burger ($16) and the braised short-rib tacos ($13). The short-rib tacos needed more zing, they were too sweet for my taste. The Fine Irishman was good, though, with its brisket-short-rib blend, Port Salut cheese, peppercorn Jameson cream sauce, potato chips and jalapeno onion relish. Our favorite thing of the night, however, was the Caesar salad ($7). I was happy about this because that was why I used to come to Club 41. They’d toss the Caesar at your table, and it was so good. White Horse’s Caesar arrives pre-made but it’s cold, crisp and well-tossed in a bold dressing.

So come on in to this inviting booze-forward eating and drinking establishment. It’s great for two on a date or 20 on a pub crawl. There’s even an enclosed room for those planning a party. Cocktails hover in the $10 to $12 range, but I’ve been told they’re starting a new Happy Hour this week. From 4 to 7 p.m. weekdays, the drinks are half off. And ask Jason (or another bartender) about the Instagram promotion. You might get your drink for free.

--

What: White Horse Lounge

Where: 41 S. De Lacey Street, Pasadena

When: Daily, 4 p.m. to close

Prices: Small plates $4 to $12; specialties, $11 to $16

More info: (626) 583-9013; www.whitehorsepasadena.com
--

LISA DUPUY welcomes comments at LDupuy@aol.com.