Dining Review: Westside Italian without hitting the 405

A gem of an Italian trattoria has just opened on an unexpected corner in Burbank. Housed in an old cheesesteak joint, Centanni Trattoria is poised to become a favorite for nearby residents who don’t have much to choose from in the way of fine dining in this part of town. It may even become a favorite for faraway residents. This is some tasty classic Italian food.

Centanni’s Burbank is the second restaurant for owners Helen Wassell-Paez and Alex Paez with executive chef Marin Santos. The first Centanni is in Venice, Calif. This fact reminds me of a complaint I’ve heard a couple of times lately: “If I wanted to pay those prices, I’d drive to the Westside.” Well, what if you could get Westside-quality food without making the drive? Wouldn’t that be a good thing? That’s what you’ll have at Centanni’s in Burbank. And here’s the thing, the prices at Centanni, while a bit steep, are no higher than say Gennaro’s or Far Niente (both of which I love). The decor may be more sparse at Centanni, but that’s probably because they’re new. Centanni has a lot going for it including excellent service, ample portions and impeccable preparation.

Our party of four neglected to make a reservation, but the host cheerfully seated us anyway. We opted for two appetizers off the daily specials chalkboard. The sizable rings of fried calamari tasted fresh and delicate, its dipping sauce a zesty marinara. The prosciutto and burrata salad came piled high with the creamiest mozzarella and most tender ham we’ve had in a long time. Heirloom tomatoes and a bit of basil rounded it out.
We had to ask for bread, but it arrived quickly. The wine list is tightly curated, mostly from California and Italy. There’s a $20 corkage fee if you choose to bring your own. The house reds and whites are very good and fairly priced.

Panini lead the menu, but we just skipped right over those to the outstanding-looking pastas and classic plates. Plates come with your choice of one contorni (side dish). The pollo piccata plate ($16) had two large pieces of pounded chicken in a beautiful lemon caper sauce. I chose piping hot sauteed spinach on the side. I’m still thinking about that spinach. The eggplant parmigiana was fluffy and satisfying. My son didn’t see exactly what he wanted on the menu so he built his own creation: spaghetti aglio e olio ($11) with smoked salmon ($5 extra). Remarkably delicious. The cavatelli in sausage ragu, a homemade house specialty ($16), was close to mind-blowing. It was like a carousel of food the way those dishes kept making the circuit around the table.

Keep in mind that every day until 3 p.m. they offer a lunch special for a mere $10. It includes your choice of pollo piccata, gnocchi pesto or any pasta excluding pappardelle and house specialties. It comes with a salad as well. I’d think this would be a hit with employees of Nickelodeon Studios just down the street.

Centanni’s interior is cozy and well-suited for special occasions such as rehearsal dinners or birthday parties. It is a bit loud though. Perhaps the front room or wine bar would be a better choice. Parking is very easy in the adjacent lot.
In the end we felt sated by indulgent food and pampered by our waiter and his assistants. I’m not sure you’d get all that on the Westside.

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What: Centanni Trattoria

Where: 117 N. Victory Blvd., Burbank

When: Open daily; lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. (9:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday)

Prices: antipasti, $4 to $14; panini and insalate, $6 to $13; pasta, plates and specialties, $11 to $19; lunch special, $10

More info: (818) 561-4643; www.centannila.com
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LISA DUPUY welcomes comments and suggestions at LDupuy@aol.com.