A New Moon over Montrose

Cherie Mercer Twohy

Judging from the bustling lunch crowd, newly opened New Moon

Restaurant is a welcome addition to a formerly restaurant-challenged

corner of Montrose. The entrance encompasses a small, attractive bar

area, framed by trickling waterfalls and dark, wood wine racks. Beer

and wine are available, as well as soju, a Korean drink described as

being “like vodka, but milder.”

Hostesses in brightly colored, Asian-inspired blouses flutter like

blossoms in an otherwise spare decor. Lattice-backed cherry chairs

surround white-on-white tables. The exposed beams and high ceiling

don’t muffle noise well, so there is an audible bustle in the room.

(Not ear-shattering din, just enough background noise to make the

place kid-appropriate.)

A cup of Roasted Chicken Noodle Soup ($4.25) proves a fragrant and

promising start. The portion is generous enough that a large bowl

($7.95) would make a meal. The soup is fresh and flavorful, with

tasty broth that is not too salty, often the case with similar soups.

Generous ribbons of tender chicken float in the broth, along with

florets of bright broccoli, lightning-bolt-shaped carrot slices and

long Chinese noodles.

Another starter is the Original New Moon Chicken Salad ($6.95

small, $9.95 full). The menu claims that the family introduced the

Chinese Chicken Salad some 45 years ago ... a boastful claim,

perhaps, but a tasty salad, in any case. We reluctantly left the

Sizzling Rice Soup ($4.75 cup, $8.75 large bowl) to try on another

visit.

Shelby’s Sweet and Spicy Beef ($10.95) is a visual delight,

arranged on a triangular platter, with artist’s palette colors from

the snowy white of crisp, fried-rice noodles, to deep mahogany beef,

to the bright-green counterpoint of crisp-tender broccoli. The meat

is meltingly tender, with a sauce that clings without being overly

thick or sticky. Ginger, tangerine and garlic notes tantalize, with

just a whisper of chile heat lingering after each bite.

Pork lo mein ($8.75) provides a perfect balance of red-rimmed

roast pork slices, fresh snow peas, carrots and water chestnuts and

plump noodles, cooked perfectly so they are just chewy enough to be

toothsome.

Carb-watchers may opt for an order of Minced Chicken with Lettuce

Cups ($10.95), which can be assembled at will, including glossy

hoisin sauce and a sweet-and-sour sauce with a house-made flavor, as

well as generous amounts of well-seasoned chopped chicken. Crinkles

of fried-rice noodles add crunch, if a few carbs are in the picture.

Wrap your selections in crisp lettuce leaves, burrito-style, and

happily munch your creation, guilt and (nearly) carb free. The menu

is wide-ranging, seeming to offer “something for everyone,” with an

array of poultry, beef and seafood choices, as well as a good number

of vegetarian dishes. Well-written descriptions entice the diner with

vivid flavor language, making selecting one or two dishes difficult,

so bring a group that will share nicely.

Quibbles: Service was on the slow side, but that’s understandable,

as we visited during the opening week of the restaurant. Noise level

a bit high for intimate dining, but not overwhelming.

Kudos: Imaginative menu makes selection difficult enough to

warrant a return visit. Staff was friendly, and restaurant is

comfortable and attractive.