Fine dining recommendations: The Royce at the Langham Huntington

Especially at this time of year, when relatives roll into town eager to live it up. It's fun to introduce them to L.A.'s ethnic dining scene, chase food trucks around town and stop in at the latest cutting-edge venues. But at some point, they may want to indulge in a celebratory holiday meal at one of L.A.'s fine-dining establishments.

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The Royce at the Langham Huntington. Out with the dated ship models and fusty decor. In with a bright contemporary dining room and beautiful, subtle cooking from Guy Savoy protegé David Féau. His $85 tasting menu is an astonishing bargain for cooking at this level. Wine director Eric Espuny has put together a cellar of about 5,000 selections that covers all the bases. Exceptional dining in Pasadena.

1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, (626) 585-6410, Entrees, $35 to $42; tasting menu, $85.

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S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times

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