Dining review: Traditions fuse at Pasadena’s Abricott

Vietnamese meets French meets Korean in a space where hipster meets Marie Antoinette meets library at South Lake’s Abricott. With an eclectic decor anchored in Parisian cafe, this latest restaurant from the creators of the popular Daisy Mint is a great place for a quick breakfast, lunch with shopping mates, or a big family dinner.

I scored beaucoup points with my French family when I suggested we go there for Mother’s Day. There’s a charming room in the back with French mirrors, diamond-paned windows and a draped ceiling. The Manga art, antlers and quirky chandelier let you know they have a sense of humor too. I can’t think of a better place to take a group of eight or 10 people. On top of that, the food is delicious, the service is great, and because you can bring your own wine or beer (at this time), the bill is manageable.

With dishes like croque-monsieur, mussels Provencal and trout amandine, you might think they serve classic French fare, but almost everything we tried had a touch of Asian flavoring. Take, for instance, the sweet & salty wings ($7). No, really, take them, they’re delicious. The wings are deep-fried but dry and crispy with two dipping sauces, one sweet, one tangy, but neither creamy. There are various vinegar- and citrus-based sauces with many of the dishes, such as with the sesame marinated flank steak ($15). The French influence is tasted in the cut of beef, the garlic mushroom mashed potatoes and the green beans, but the chefs add a fat-cutting Asian kick with their vinegary side sauce.

The spicy pork belly sandwich ($9) is marinated in Korean flavors and sports a kimchi relish but comes on a baguette with a side of thin, crispy pommes frites. The Nicoise salad has all the standard French ingredients of potatoes, beans and olives but sparkles with an unexpected vibrancy from its tarragon-thyme dressing. Same goes for the Vietnamese grilled shrimp salad ($10), which delivers a shock of fresh mint with every bite.

I hesitate to mention the sublime special of the night in case they don’t make it again. Just know it involved coconut cream, angel hair pasta and fresh clams. However, you can get their outstanding Abricott burger on a brioche bun ($11) anytime. Ground and seasoned in-house, this patty is handled delicately, retaining a structure and flavor I haven’t had elsewhere.

We had three efficient servers with bubbly personalities constantly checking to make sure we were taken care of. We wanted to stay all night, and they happily obliged by bringing marvelous cups of LaMILL coffee. The macchiato ($3) is particularly satisfying. We shared fluffy-crisp waffles and ice cream with shots of espresso poured over them ($8). You can get this flavor bomb for breakfast too, seated among the vintage books or out on the airy patio bordering Lake.

You won’t find creamy French sauces or complicated reductions at Abricott but rather dishes with a lighter Pan-Asian touch that are full of fresh flavors.

LISA DUPUY has written about food, travel and entertainment for more than 25 years. She can be reached at ldupuy@aol.com.

Abricott

Where: 238 S. Lake Ave., Pasadena

When: Monday to Thursday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday to Sunday, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Prices: Starters $6-$12; entrees $9-$15

Info: (626) 796-1613; www.abricott.com