Restaurant Review:

What started almost as an accident has blossomed into one of the strongest restaurants in the area and a place treasured by residents.

It began in the kitchen of Zov Karamardian, who enjoyed cooking for friends and family and decided to start a catering business. That morphed into a restaurant in Tustin and that has evolved into locations in Irvine and Newport Coast.

Karamardian’s son, Armen, runs the Newport Coast location and had the privilege of growing up with his mom’s cooking. It gave him a perfect view into his mother’s philosophy of how she wants the restaurant run.

Armen has added some touches, like the deliciously crisp pomegranate martini that was so smooth I didn’t even think there was alcohol in it.

Despite the beautifully but simply decorated dining room, the restaurant still has a nice homey feel to it. If the décor doesn’t remind you of dining at a family or friend’s house, the food certainly will. What I like is that with few exceptions, there is uniqueness in every menu item at Zov’s.

For example the crispy pita nachos take a couple of cultures and meld them together pretty effortlessly. The roasted chicken and pico de gallo with avocado and fontina cheese instead of the traditional cheddar was exceptionally good.

Karamardian can’t stray far from her Middle Eastern roots with the starters offering hummus, tabouleh and lahmejuhn for options to begin a meal.

The lahmejuhn is a spicy beef with diced tomatoes, and bits of feta and Parmesan cheese. The beef is tender and the cheeses counterbalance any spice from the meat.

We wanted hummus, but instead of ordering it alone, got the mezze platter, which comes with hummus, grape leaves, muhammara and pita bread.

The hummus has a nice smooth texture, with no signs of lumps. The muhammara is usually a spicy dip, but Karamardian has mellowed it out, giving it a sweet taste with a nutty texture.

The grape leaves were a pleasure to eat. They were soft, with no bitterness that can sometime occur.

My only complaint with the dish is that I wish the pita slices were warm. They came out cold and there is nothing better than hummus and warm pita.

One of Karamardian’s signature items is her golden lentil soup. It should not be missed because the tastes of the soup are so delicate and comforting.

For lunch I would suggest the grilled cheese and ham that is relatively new to the menu. It is melted Brie and cheddar on black forest ham. The Brie is a great choice and I might be tempted next time to order it sans the cheddar. The caramelized onions sweeten it up, but that is balanced by the Dijon aioli.

Another new item is the meatloaf. It was really good. Moist and firm, the mild gravy that accompanies it is shiitake mushrooms with a red wine reduction. It was truly unique and highlighted Karamardian’s creativity.

The macaroni and cheese is another comfort food that Karamardian gives a twist. Most will find the roasted chicken, mushrooms and crumbled bacon works with the noodles and cheddar and Parmesan cheeses. I am a purist when it comes to mac and cheese and don’t want any other items in it.

But I like what Karamardian has done with the menu. One of only a handful of people to be bestowed with the Angel Award from the James Beard Foundation, for what the board called “her independent vision and . . . significant contributions” to the culinary world.

Orange County is fortunate to have her and Zov’s. It is a restaurant that will remind you of home.

Zov’s Café, Bakery and Bar

ADDRESS: 21123 Newport Coast Drive, Newport Coast

PHONE: (949) 760-9687

WEBSITE: www.zovs.com

CUISINE: Californian and Middle Eastern

SPECIALTY DISH: meatloaf

ALCOHOL SERVED: full bar

ENTRÉE PRICE RANGE: $9.95 to $22.95

FAMILY FRIENDLY: yes, separate children’s menu

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: American Express, MasterCard and Visa

RATING: *** 1/2

JOHN REGER reviews local restaurants and may be contacted at Nolimepublishing@aol.com or P.O. Box 2984, Seal Beach, CA 90740.