The water was so vibrant -- a faint mixture of blue and green. My
every movement reflected below me as my outstretched arms reached
past my right shoulder and then my left. With each motion, the water
pulled alongside my surfboard.
Time had stopped, and without a whisper of wind, the ocean
glistened before me. The ocean was so glassy it was as though I was
on top of a huge mirror with my reflection cascading and surrounded
in a blur of blue and green. For a moment, I was completely lost in
everything. Even in the pelicans that soared above.
I too was soaring, out there alone with no one except for my
thoughts. My thoughts that were nothing more than “just how beautiful
it was” and how lucky I was to know that “this is who I am and what I
live for in my life.”
These sporadic moments of joy can only be captured by those who
seek them. There are no two people who seek the same path of life,
and there is no certainty that the one you chose is the correct one,
unless it is the one that follows your heart. In my life, I have
followed the path of the ocean.
It is the sound of the breaking wave that I can listen to forever.
I never saw the wave, but I can tell you that early on one washed
right into my life and into my heart and soul. My relationship with
the ocean has become so strong that I refer to the ocean as my best
friend, and some may say my demon, as well.
Teacher, mentor and friend the ocean is everything to me. It has
given me so much in my life but most of all peace of mind. A
sanctuary of sorts, where I truly feel alive and comfortable. Almost
like I’m just another wave. I love it and breath it.
It is where my passion for life thrives, for every time I paddle
out on that surfboard I can begin to hear my heart beat. Louder and
louder it begins, until it is saying, “Listen to me, hear me roar.” I
am alive and well.
* JAMES PRIBRAM is a Laguna Beach resident, professional surfer
and co-founder of “They Will Surf Again,” a nonprofit foundation
assisting people with spinal cord injuries. He was also a member of
the Water Quality Advisory Committee.