Dining Out

Glori Fickling

An illustrious Laguna Beach landmark circa 1940s, the Royal Hawaiian

will celebrate an incredible 55 year anniversary come Christmas.

This enchanting creation of Hawaii natives, Francis and Dionisia

Cabang, is something of a festive phenomenon having survived far beyond

those once trendy Polynesian restaurants of the 40s and 50s, Trader Vic’s

and Don the Beachcomber.

With its thatched roof facade and sensuous network of island-inspired

dining areas, the restaurant is under the direction of Cabang’s

personable son, J.R. and charming daughter Marilyn, who expanded the menu

a few years ago. Now those five-course dinners of the early days, have

given way to a varied bill of fare offering more than two dozen

three-course repasts, some tasty appetizers, a few children’s specials

and several early bird bargains.

The place is very much a haven for three generations of Lagunan’s who

continue to enjoy the reasonable prices along with the comfortable island

ambience. Many are longtime school chums who gather for birthdays,

graduations and anniversaries. It often seems like old home week when

locals wander inside to sample one of super-mixologist Eddie’s potent

tropicocktails, or enjoy dinner at one of the romantically lighted tables

nestled among myriad tanks of exotic tropical fish.

Complete dinners these days are served with the famous French onion

soup, “no ka oi” tossed salad with “ono ono” dressing, warm brown bread,

baked potato and a fresh pineapple slice.

Especially popular are the ala moana spare ribs, Chinese fried jumbo

shrimp and combinations of the two. A choice of 30 entrees, most less

than $16, range in price from $6.95 for a center cut ham steak to an

enormous combination platter of crablegs, lobster tail and rib eye or New

York steak, usually enough to satisfy two appetites.

Early diners are rewarded with such full-course specials as teriyaki

chicken breast, Icelandic cod fish & chips, top sirloin, broiled

swordfish and salmon steak, at $6.95 to $8.95.

For the small fry there are barbecue ribs, ground round steak, broiled

lamb chops and more for a reasonable $4.50 to $5.95.

Desserts are all a mere $1.25, including the Pele Goddess of Fire ice

cream scoop, crowned with a flaming sugar cube, the same sweet treat

included with the price of dinner in those early days of yore.

THE ROYAL HAWAIIAN

Where: 331 North Coast Highway

Hours: Open for dinner 5 to 10:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday 5 to

10:30 p.m.; 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday; early bird dinners 5 to 7 p.m.; 4 to 6

p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday.