A convent with a curfew

Hello from Florence! I’ve been here nearly a week, and I was quite happy to get here at all. Getting out of Spain and through France was an adventure in itself. Since France is in the midst of a strike, there are no trains traveling into or out of the country. What all of this means is that this merry traveler was less than merry after 22 hours on a bus from Barcelona to Florence.

Once I reached my destination (now tired, hungry and desperately in need of a shower), my next task was to find economical accommodations ? not an easy feat in this city. One of the greatest downsides to traveling on the fly is that when you reach your destination, you must troll around the city, carting all your luggage, in search of a place to stay. This could take a matter of minutes (if your determination to stay on budget is weakened by the siren-like call of a bed and bath) or a couple of hours (and many sweaty blocks) to find that sweet deal that eludes so many. My sweet deal: a convent not too far from the Duomo, one of the main attractions in Florence.

Now you may be picturing me sleeping in a closet-sized cell, but, in fact, my room at the convent is the largest I have had since coming to Europe. Its decor is simple (an old hospital-style bed, a dresser, a wardrobe, a desk and a cross on the wall), and I share a line of bathrooms and showers with other guests. Outside my window (and I mean directly outside my window) is a bell that rings every morning, afternoon and evening to call the nuns to prayer (or so I assume). It is delightfully loud ? every time it rings I find myself laughing at the fact that, of course, my room is the only room next to the bell! (Is this some kind of divine punishment?)

None of the nuns speak English, but we manage to understand each other well enough with the little Italian I know. (I wonder how you would say, “I’m a heathen,” in Italian?) Perhaps the one (other) downside is the 11:30 p.m. curfew, which I haven’t had since, well, ever. Needless to say, this makes bar-hopping a bit futile, but I suppose that is the sacrifice a budget traveler must make in order to save euros!

Florence is beautiful and full of English speakers, but I do my best to stick to Italian. It can be quite lonely, though (I miss Joelle). In a place as beautiful as this, you want to share your discoveries with a friend.

The locals are all welcoming, though, perhaps a little too wel- coming at times! I’ve learned that if you return a man’s “hello” at night, they will take it as an invitation to follow you down the block, looking, no doubt, for more than a little chat! A firm, “no grazie,” is usually all you need to shake these guys off as you go on your way.

As far as the food goes, I have entered a sea of gelato and, as an avid ice cream lover, I have either found my paradise or my poison. Every flavor you could want to savor can be found here and each one is as delicious as the next. With cups ranging from two to six euros (the two-euro cup is more of a tease than a taste), it’s not a cheap treat either. (I’ve found that sodas are quite expensive as well. Only last night I saw a single serving of Coke for more than three euros ? no refills!

My stay at the convent will be up tomorrow, but I would like to stay in Florence for Easter Sunday when (according to my “Lonely Planet” guidebook, “Europe on a Shoe String”) a cart of fireworks is set off in front of the Duomo. My search for a cheap hotel will begin again! There are other convents to call upon (and I will), but I wouldn’t mind paying a little extra for a nightlife! I’ll do some scouting today and hopefully find a reasonable rate. It is likely, however, that many places will be full for the holiday, and I will be spending some extra dough. These fireworks better be amazing!

I haven’t decided where I will go after Florence, but it will probably be to the south. Wherever I go, it will definitely not be by bus! My parents visited Italy last year and gave the Italian train system glowing reviews, so I am looking forward to a (short) ride. Perhaps I will check out Umbria (which I have heard is beautiful) before going to Rome.