But why is surfing so great, you ask? Well, for starters you can do it on the cheap. With a good used board and wetsuit you’ve got a ticket to ride. Makes me think of “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory” when Charlie found the golden ticket! (He bought that Wonka bar with a quarter!) The only bail-out needed is when you go over the falls of a closeout.
The health benefits are amazing. There’s cardio involved, upper body, lower body and core training too. Talk about longevity, there’s some legendary folks out there still shredding it up! And ask any surfer how they feel after a session, most likely you’ll hear responses along the lines of “refreshed” or “stoked.” Admit it; you’ve seen the toothy grin a surfer sports when describing their surf adventures.
Surfing holds adventure too, and not only in the “fly halfway around the world” variety, I’m talking here in Orange County. We have a great stretch of beaches with all kinds of different breaks, all with easy access.
There are point breaks, beach breaks, piers, jetties, reefs and sandbars.
We receive great swells from multiple directions such as south’s, north’s, west’s, and even east’s (talk to Dennis Mctighe about those). Suffice it to say we get our share of variety.
It’s good for your social life. There is a whole tribe of interesting people out in the line-up and on the beach, especially here in Laguna. Everyone’s doin’ it: doctors, artists, drifters, socialites, hippies, soccer moms, kids, Vikings, and more. And who doesn’t love eating some great fish tacos after a surf? It’s the fun way to end a day at the beach with friends and family.
CHRIS WILLIAMS is the father of four surf-crazy sons, a surfing coach and Laguna Beach resident. He can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org or (949) 497-5918.