Say aloha to grill’s Pacific cuisine

Doug Tabbert

Two commercialism-

saturated city blocks from the pier sits the Aloha Grill, which

offers Pacific Rim cuisine and a superior array of frozen tropical

drinks, margaritas, as well as several wines and beer. From the

outdoor patio, patrons can peer onto Main Street’s offering of

tourists, pierced and tattooed locals, teenagers and simple beach

folk.

The dining and bar areas are soothingly dark, particularly so for

those feeling the surfeit of the sun’s excess. There are indoor and

outdoor palapas, or sun umbrellas; woven rattan and bamboo cover the

ceiling and walls, which are checkered with white-sand beachscapes

and surfing, sailing and fishing memorabilia. Gaston Villalba, owner

for more than 10 years, said “regulars are always giving me pictures

to hoist up,” when asked about a small photograph of a sailing yacht.

We opted for the Pupu Platter ($12.95), an amalgam of most of the

10 appetizers. There were several strips of lightly breaded calamari

steak, half an order of Surf City sushi -- or California rolls -- and

two Cajun, seared ahi tuna sushi rolls. There were also two chicken

satay sticks with peanut sauce and mini, marinated chicken

drummettes, which are slow-roasted, then tossed in a spicy cherry

char-siu with pineapple and green onions. We were unsure which items

went with which sauce (there were four) but soon discovered the mango

salsa was gone.

The colorful frozen drinks at the bar complement the parade of

humanity below. I tried the seductive Rainbow ($5) with a float of

rum ($1 extra). As a lover of all things smoothie-like, this is a

phenomenal mixture of juice (pineapple and orange), shaved ice and

dark Lahaina rum. This layered concoction, complete with a

mini-umbrella, includes from the bottom up: a layer of Peach on the

Beach, Maui Melon, Rum Runner and Blue Hawaiian.

Splitting the platter and an entree would be ideal for two people.

We had two entrees: the Pacific Rim mahi-mahi ($9.95), a filet of

fish topped with ample lemon-cilantro ginger pepper sauce served with

sticky rice and vegetables; and the Hawaiian plate of pulled pork

($7.97). In short, we had leftovers and no room for the only dessert

option available, a slice of Hawaiian upside-down cake.

Mahi-mahi is a firm fish, which I don’t prefer unless it comes in

a tortilla with pico de gallo, cabbage and spicy habanero-cilantro

mayo, which is the case if you order the fish taco platter. The menu

claims they are “Main Street’s best!”

The abundant serving of sweet, steaming pork, upon which I poured

a balanced teriyaki sauce, along with the stickiest scoop of rice

I’ve come across, was superb. However, I do suggest substituting the

macaroni for some vegetables.

* DOUG TABBERT is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, e-mail hbindy@latimes.com