Proud recipient of the prestigious Zagat award last year, 230
Forest Avenue gained a reputation as the "in spot" among foodies soon
after debuting at its namesake address Downtown in the summer of
1995. With an interestingly revised menu launched at the beginning of
this new year, loyal patrons, who are numerous, are in for delicious
Some enticing new presentations are one example of the updated
bill of fare, and according to gracious principal Terry Rothbard,
prices are slightly lower on a few items. It is the artistry of
innovative executive chef Marc Cohen, however, that has added
refreshing new appeal to what are termed starters, green plates,
ocean and land plates and the famed pasta bowls.
Especially impressive is the delicious ahi tuna tartare appetizer,
standing twin wafer cones strewn with wasabi caviar flanking a
delicate shot of chilled sake at the ready to sprinkle atop the sweet
ginger cones or to sip between bites. Totally new are
made-on-the-premises seafood sausage crowning spicy cannellini beans
in savory mustard sauce; lemon thyme porcini risotto with grilled
asparagus in white truffle oil; fried wontons of goat cheese,
sun-dried tomato and toasted garlic infused with blackberry vinegar.
An ongoing taste bud launcher is the huge bowl of steamed New
Zealand green lip mussels and manila clam laden with slivered leeks
and tomato chunks, the savory broth delicious for sopping with the
crusty French bread offered with little tubs of herbed butter.
A new addition to the pasta lineup is ricotta cheese ravioli with
butternut squash and roasted peptitas in sage brown butter. The
highly favored Thai linguine pasta bowl continues here, flavored with
warm cilantro chicken, roasted red peppers and broccoli topped with
crisp cellophane noodles and a drizzle of creamy peanut sauce.
Joining the dozen ocean and land entrees is white sea bass over
roasted root vegetables with wild rice in sweet onion consomme. To
satisfy dedicated carnivores, 230 Forest now serves a 14-ounce New
York steak livened with three-peppercorn brown butter and accompanied
with fingerling potato fries and grilled asparagus.
This is a dining experience unparalleled, whether you join a
hungry group or choose to dine solo. A welcoming entry bar that
stretches out to the sidewalk. Settle inside, where premium labels
captivate the cocktail contingent, or simply stroll street side. The
whirling numerals "230" are illuminated on the concrete walk, and the
friendly presence of a charming hostess are mere exterior signs of
the enticing repast awaiting at this delightfully artistic gourmet
* GLORI FICKLING is a Laguna Beach resident who has been writing
restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be contacted at
494-4710 or by e-mail at email@example.com.