Upscale eatery opens on penninsula

A half-naked lunch haunt has been transformed into a high-end eatery by Newport-Mesa’s dean of nightlife.

Doug McAlister ? co-creator of Sutra Lounge and Dennis Rodman’s Josh Slocum’s ? has just launched Kantina, an Asian-infused Mexican eatery on the shores of the Balboa Peninsula.

Located in the building that once housed Hooters, the modern waterside eatery has its own boat slips and upscale lounge with a view of the harbor, capturing a share of chic still up for grabs among the peninsula’s sometimes wild nightlife scene.

Visitors to Kantina are greeted by a giant, wooden revolving door, gleaming Scandinavian-inspired mahogany furniture and an imposing candle-filled wall reminiscent of Sutra’s entryway.

“I think Newport Beach is ready for the sophistication Kantina offers. We learned with Sutra Lounge that the community in this part of Orange County is ready for a more refined, stylish destination restaurant,” McAlister said.

Chef Robert Herrera from the Montage Resort and Spa has been brought in to design the menu, creating dishes like ahi-sashimi tacos and chicken won ton nachos. To save space, McAlister replaced the swinging doors in the kitchen with a high-tech, triple-panel glass door system that opens and closes from a motion detector.

The restaurant will be operated by McAlister’s Culinary Management Group and will serve breakfast, lunch and dinner. Evening bar service will also be available. McAlister estimates he spent more than $1.4 million upgrading the facility.

Kantina replaces the 12-year-old Hooters that closed in 2004. An Oceanside-based company recently opened a new Hooters in Costa Mesa.

While Kantina is pushing forward with its new tastes, some on the peninsula wonder if it can sustain its upper echelon approach. Prices for drinks range from $8 to $12, while appetizers run from $10 to $15 ? the restaurant’s fillet mignon burrito will set you back $22.

Bartender Peter Devine of the Stag Bar said he’s not sure people on the peninsula will pay that much.

“Sure everyone does good on Friday and Saturday night, but I just don’t see how they’re going to do it seven days a week.”

Others were more optimistic.

“For me it’s another option, and I don’t think the menu is that different from places on Mariner’s Mile,” said Maggie Pillis, a self-described peninsula “foodie” who eats out at least twice a week. “Only time will tell how it does.”