RESTAURANT REVIEW:Visit a pleasantly atypical buffet Todai

Buffets are usually reserved for soon-to-be broke gamblers on bus trips to Las Vegas, where the stretch pants and relaxed-fit jeans can handle the carbohydrate overload.

It’s the one time they will bust and not feel like a loser, though the food is often the worst bet in a town where the house always wins.

Shying away from the all-you-can-eat establishments has always been a goal of mine, though I have made an exception recently.

Todai is not your usual buffet, and that is apparent when you walk in the front door.

Diners are greeted warmly and loudly by an attentive staff, who welcomes every person in Japanese. And unlike most buffets where you pay before you begin eating, here you are seated and directed to the buffet, while a drink order is taken.

There are two levels to the buffet. The lower one is where the hot entrees, soups and desserts are. The upper one is reserved for mostly sushi, though some salads are also available.

It is the sushi that makes up a good portion of the upper-island display. There are the usual suspects: California roll, spicy tuna and a crunchy roll, but also other types I had not had before. One of the sushi chefs stumbled, however, when I asked him what was in the Philadelphia roll, unsure of the creation he had made.

A minor hiccup, I glided over to the sashimi and hand rolls, which are both very impressive. The sashimi included shrimp, salmon and tuna alongside more unique types of mackerel, eel and albacore. All were delicately prepared and fresh.

The hand rolls are stuffed with items like spicy scallops, imitation crab and spicy tuna. The seaweed wrap was slightly crunchy and added an interesting texture to the wraps.

What I enjoyed most about the restaurant are the subtle extra touches not usually found at buffets. Instead of cutting up ginger and putting it out, the chef has prepared a pickled ginger that cleanses the palette in an interesting way.

Crab legs are often served without crackers, making eating them a frustrating chore. Metal crab crackers were available here.

The attention is also obvious with the entrees the restaurant serves.

Traditional dishes like fried rice are served, but the restaurant uses brown rice instead of white rice, making it not only healthier but much more flavorful.

The chicken teriyaki was surprisingly moist and instead of being slathered in salty sauce to cover up any overcooking, this dish had a subtle teriyaki sauce that accented the chicken.

Next to these mainstay entrees were some more unorthodox dishes. The calamari rings were seasoned with sesame seeds and a ginger dressing, with a touch of spice added to the crisp rings.

The dish I enjoyed the most was the jumbo king shrimp. It was baked and topped with mayonnaise, crabmeat and vegetables. Though the blue crab was a close runner-up.

The buffet is pricey, with dinner nearly $30 before tip, but it is worth the occasional visit.