Jonathan Gold reviews the Hearth & Hound

Charred chicories with citrus, pistachios and forage blanc. In addition to a lively bar, the Hearth & Hound offers a wine list pulled together by Beastie Boy Mike D.

(Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Jan. 26, 2018 10:58 AM PT

Jonathan Gold reviews the Hearth & Hound

Pork with quince and verjus

(Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Octopus with celeriac

(Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Hiramasa with vegetable escabeche

(Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Cabbage with oyster emulsion and meat drippings

(Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times )

Chicken with green peppercorn jus and Trumpet Royale mushrooms

(Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Black cod with orange sauce and fennel

(Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

April Bloom is the chef behind Hearth & Hound in Hollywood, in the old Cat & Fiddle space. Her aesthetic: simple yet full-flavored small plates. Though known for her meat dishes at places like New York’s Spotted Pig, she puts vegetables forward here and employs a lot of Middle Eastern flavors.

(Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

The bar at the Hearth & Hound.

(Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)