Jonathan Gold reviews Native

The Spanish octopus dish with crispy hominy, smoked yogurt, sauce vert and cilantro at Native.

The toasted vanilla custard with kumquat, oat crumble and sweet tarragon oil at Native.

Deep-fried chocolate with candied chile threads at Native.

The sticky rice dessert is grilled in a banana leaf at Native.

Roasted banana cake with almonds and candied ginger at Native.

The kalettes dish at Native.

Rabbit sugo with chewy semolina spaetzle, collard greens and sauce diable at Native.

The patio area of Native restaurant in Santa Monica.

Another view of the patio area of Native.

Head chef Nyesha J. Arrington, who competed on “Top Chef,” poses at the bar at her Native restaurant.

The dining area of Native restaurant in Santa Monica.

The bar area of Native restaurant in Santa Monica.

The exterior of Native restaurant in Santa Monica.

Another view of the bar area at Native.