Jonathan Gold reviews Verlaine in West Hollywood

Scallop aguachile at West Hollywood’s Verlaine comes with avocado, red onion, cucumber and chile serrano.

The smoked-chicken enchilada features escabeche, black chichilo, queso fresco and chicharron.

Whole baby beetroots with garlic puree, hibiscus powder and dried cheese at Verlaine.

Verlaine’s corn cake includes corn anglaise, butter crumble and fennel meringue.

The half chicken at Verlaine includes burnt eggplant, grilled carrot, pickled radish, salsa madre and kale.

Homemade flour and corn tortillas at Verlaine.

Verlaine sous chef Esteban Lluis.

Verlaine takes the place of the former Rat Pack hangout Dominick’s in West Hollywood.

Cocktails at Verlaine include the Golden Boy, with tequila, honey, lemon, pomegranate and Indian-spiced tonic.

Verlaine in West Hollywood takes its name from the French symbolist poet.