Ruby red grapefruit and Meyer lemon fool with coconut cake, meringue and shortbread hearts. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
The Minimalist interior of Cooks County, on Beverly Boulevard. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
Grilled lamb’s tongue with poached farm egg, chicories and a parsley vinaigrette. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
Fat Sacramento Delta asparagus with Jersey cow’s milk ricotta, pounded hazelnuts and lemon zest. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
Idaho trout, French lentils, marinated beets and yogurt. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
Bread baked in cast iron, served with farmhouse butter. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
Cooks County is at 8009 Beverly Blvd., a few blocks west of Fairfax Avenue. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
Roasted beets with blood oranges, pistachios, honey and mint. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
More than 100 wines are available at Cooks County. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
