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Jonathan Gold reviews Holbox

The Yucatán-style seafood menu at Gilberto Cetina Jr.'s Holbox in Mercado La Paloma includes octopus tacos.

The Yucatán-style seafood menu at Gilberto Cetina Jr.’s Holbox in Mercado La Paloma includes octopus tacos.

  (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

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Jonathan Gold reviews Holbox

The ceviches on offer may include this one made of opah.

  (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Holbox

The cocktel mixto, or seafood cocktail, is a recommended dish.

  (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Holbox

Blood clams are a recommended dish.

  (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

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Jonathan Gold reviews Holbox

Chiles rellenos de pescado are among the menu’s hot appetizer selections.

  (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Holbox

Taco selections may include these made with ono.

  (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Holbox

Octopus tentacles are grilled at Holbox. Jonathan Gold recommends enjoying them in tacos.

  (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Holbox

Chef Gilberto Cetina Jr. assembles a cocktail at Holbox.

  (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

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Chef Gilberto Cetina Jr. of Chichen Itza has opened a neighboring seafood stall in Mercado La Paloma

Chef Gilberto Cetina Jr. of Chichen Itza has opened a neighboring seafood stall in Mercado La Paloma and named it Holbox after an island off the Yucatán peninsula.

  (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

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