Jonathan Gold reviews Kato
Three-cup octopus is cooked with soy, oil and rice wine in the manner of Taiwanese three-cup chicken.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)A dessert of guava, green apple and lime sorbet.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)Yuzu cheese tart.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)Smoked hamachi with cucumber and scallion.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)A shepherd’s-pie-like potato-and-egg dish.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)Ocean trout, ikura and turnip.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)Kato chef-owner Jonathan Yao previously worked at Alma and Coi.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)Kato draws a crowd for its mandatory, varying tasting menu.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)Chef-owner Jonathan Yao is seen behind a sign for his restaurant, named for the character Bruce Lee played in “The Green Hornet.”
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)