Jonathan Gold reviews Kato

Three-cup octopus is cooked with soy, oil and rice wine in the manner of Taiwanese three-cup chicken.

(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

June 22, 2017 11:22 AM PT

A dessert of guava, green apple and lime sorbet.

(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Yuzu cheese tart.

(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Smoked hamachi with cucumber and scallion.

(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

A shepherd’s-pie-like potato-and-egg dish.

(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Ocean trout, ikura and turnip.

(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Kato chef-owner Jonathan Yao previously worked at Alma and Coi.

(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Kato draws a crowd for its mandatory, varying tasting menu.

(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Chef-owner Jonathan Yao is seen behind a sign for his restaurant, named for the character Bruce Lee played in “The Green Hornet.”

(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)