Jonathan Gold reviews Kato

A dessert of guava, green apple and lime sorbet.

Yuzu cheese tart.

Smoked hamachi with cucumber and scallion.

A shepherd’s-pie-like potato-and-egg dish.

Ocean trout, ikura and turnip.

Kato chef-owner Jonathan Yao previously worked at Alma and Coi.

Kato draws a crowd for its mandatory, varying tasting menu.

Chef-owner Jonathan Yao is seen behind a sign for his restaurant, named for the character Bruce Lee played in “The Green Hornet.”