Photos: Shi Hai in Alhambra

Pork and crab egg dumplings at Shi Hai are deeply porky. (Cheryl A. Guerrero / Los Angeles Times)

Sept. 18, 2014 6:29 PM PT

The new dim sum restaurant in Alhambra is at its best when it makes simple dishes that allow the fresh ingredients to shine through.

Freshly fried cruller rolls are stuffed with a kind of shrimp mousse. (Cheryl A. Guerrero / Los Angeles Times)

Kevin Yang, left, and his wife, Ally, enjoy dim sum at Shi Hai. The restaurant serves both dim sum breakfast and dinner. (Cheryl A. Guerrero / Los Angeles Times)

Salty and chewy golden pancakes are made with assorted cured meats. (Cheryl A. Guerrero / Los Angeles Times)

Taro-filled buns decorated as pigs can be served during dim sum. (Cheryl A. Guerrero / Los Angeles Times)

Kenny Lei, fourth from right, serves a table during dim sum hours. The large and sleek restaurant has Art Deco lighting and a wall of live-seafood tanks. (Cheryl A. Guerrero / Los Angeles Times)

Mushroom and pork dumplings are one of the many dumpling options served during dim sum. (Cheryl A. Guerrero / Los Angeles Times)

Wendy Yang enjoys dumplings while out to dim sum with her parents at Shi Hai. (Cheryl A. Guerrero / Los Angeles Times)

Baked dry scallop and turnip pastry. (Cheryl A. Guerrero / Los Angeles Times)

Ping Wu leaves the cashier area to serve customers at the Hong Kong-style seafood restaurant. (Cheryl A. Guerrero / Los Angeles Times)