How to catch a wave
Any clueless wannabe can flop into white water on a longboard and struggle to his feet for a second or two. But how to glide across the smooth shoulder of an unbroken wave? “Have a game plan,” advises Santa Cruz surf pro Richard Schmidt. He recommends using a soft board, about 9 feet long, in slow-moving surf spots. Here’s his plan for experiencing the thrill that has derailed a million careers.
On land, practice popping from your belly to a balanced crouch. Study the surf for 15 minutes before entering the water to ensure there are no sporadic monster swells, scout where the best ones are breaking and eyeball any hazards.
Steve Hawk, Special to the Times (Peter Arkle / For The Times)
Paddle 10 yards seaward of the outermost breaking waves. When a good one comes, time your entry so you encounter the swell just before it goes vertical. As you paddle for the beach, keep looking back to make sure the wave doesn’t break on your butt.
Once on the wave, jump to your feet. If you belly-ride down the face, you’ll cartwheel like a kook.
Steve Hawk, Special to the Times (Peter Arkle / For The Times)
While you speed toward shore, angle across the moving wall of water to stay ahead of the curl. Strike the surfer’s pretend-you’re-not-posing pose as you ponder how to make a living in a wetsuit.
Steve Hawk, Special to the Times (Peter Arkle / For The Times)