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Review: At Ledlow, Josef Centeno is serious about American cuisine
Review: At Ledlow, Josef Centeno is serious about American cuisine

When people ask about the modern way of eating in Los Angeles, the succession of wildly variant small plates followed perhaps by a big, shared platter of meat, I sometimes refer them to Josef Centeno, who got the style started here when he was chef of the long-defunct Koreatown restaurant Opus a decade or so ago. Other chefs had done the neo-tapas thing here before, of course, including Sang Yoon at Father's Office and Suzanne Goin at AOC, but Centeno was somehow more aggressive about it, careening back and forth from Asian to Mediterranean to Latin American flavors and structures, many of the dishes emphasizing vegetables instead of meat or fish, all of them congenial to a cocktail...

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