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Ravi Shankar
Embattled Kashmir is getting back on tourists' radars
Embattled Kashmir is getting back on tourists' radars

The signs that greet you as you emerge from the little airport in Srinagar, Kashmir's main city, give you a sense of how unexpected the place is going to be. The first one I saw advised, "Do not get your daughter married before the age of 18. (It is a criminal offence.) Education first. Marriage afterwards." I began bumping into town, and a policeman's kiosk announced, "Enjoy your stay in the valley. You are safe in our hands" — one of those assertions of security likely only to heighten your sense of insecurity. When Kashmir was a haven for Western honeymooners and lotus-eaters in the 1980s, Srinagar welcomed two flights a day if it was lucky. Quite wonderfully, about three dozen...

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