Towering soldiers wearing wide fantail hats face off across a pair of metal gates on one of the most heavily militarized borders in the world.
Then, to the blaring beats of patriotic songs, they swing their arms and high-kick like can-can dancers as hundreds of spectators cheer and snap selfies.
On one side, Indians; on the other, Pakistanis. It is a military display unlike perhaps any other in the world.
The heavily choreographed flag-lowering ceremony — macho and camp in equal measure — takes place every day at dusk at the countries’ main border crossing. The ritual has endured through half a century of diplomatic...