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You can laugh at the Bellwether's on-trend menu, but Ted Hopson's cooking is no joke

You can laugh at the Bellwether's on-trend menu, but Ted Hopson's cooking is no joke

On the old TV spy comedy "Get Smart," Jack Gilford occasionally played a villain called Simon the Likeable, an operative described as "the most ruthless, cunning, evil and treacherous KAOS agent in the entire world. And a heck of a nice guy." Simon the Likeable could steal secret plans from the Pentagon — and he more or less does — but the Chief finds him far too charming to arrest.

I bring up Simon the Likeable because I tend to think of him every time I visit the Bellwether, a newish American bistro in Studio City. The Bellwether is the dream project of Ann-Marie Verdi, who comes from Father's Office, and chef Ted Hopson, most recently associated...

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