Coffee-rubbed steak with charred scallion crema; braised pork cooked with berbere Doro Wat-style; and buttermilk cucumbers with pickled grapes. This is how chef Josef Centeno does fast-casual dining.
If you’re familiar with Centeno and his five downtown L.A. restaurants — Orsa & Winston, Ledlow, PYT, Bar Ama and his first, Bäco Mercat — it may seem odd to see the chef outside of downtown. But on Thursday, he’ll open his sixth restaurant, a fast-casual spin-off of Bäco Mercat called Bäcoshop — on the corner of Washington Boulevard and Irving Place in downtown Culver City.
While Bäco Mercat is now