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Jonathan Gold reviews Kali Restaurant: It's too much of a good thing

Jonathan Gold reviews Kali Restaurant: It's too much of a good thing

When you walk into Kali, maybe at the end of a short stroll from the Paramount lot down the street, one of the first things you see, perhaps even before you have registered the dining counter or the kitchen, is the giant grinning pig’s head behind glass. It’s not the only thing in that refrigerator, of course – there are hanging salamis and other evidence of an active meat program – but that head is especially prominent, hairless but otherwise intact, a corner of its lip raised in what comes across less as a snarl than a sitcom smirk.        

“A gluten-free studio lunch?’’ it seems to say. “Doing...

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