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Taco Tuesday: Chicken neck tacos in East L.A.

Taco Tuesday: Chicken neck tacos in East L.A.

Los Angeles is the greatest city in the world, and don’t let anybody tell you otherwise. It is the center of the global entertainment industry. Its scientists pilot spacecraft to Mars. And it is home to a restaurant specializing in chicken neck tacos. It is hard to imagine anything more cosmopolitan than that.

Chicken necks, called helzel, were pretty common in old-school Jewish cuisine, carefully deboned, stuffed with a doughy mixture of giblets and chicken fat, and boiled, like miniature Jewish haggises. You can sometimes find cold chicken neck with chile in the deli cases of Sichuan restaurants, and chicken neck soup is a Jamaican standard.

But none of...