Guidebook: More on the Maggies

Getting there: From LAX, connecting service to Montreal is available on Air Canada, US Airways, American, Delta and Continental. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $323.50. Service to the Magdalens is available on Air Canada Alliance and Air Canada Jazz; restricted round-trip fares begin at $225. From LAX, connecting service to Quebec City is offered on Air Canada and American; restricted round-trip fares begin at $327.87. Restricted round-trip fare to the Magdalens on Air Canada Alliance and Air Canada Jazz from Quebec City is $193.

Ferry service from Montreal to Iles-de-la-Madeleine operates from April 1 until the end of January. Reservations are essential in July and August; call Coopérative de Transport Maritime & Aérien at (514) 937-7656, The boat departs Montreal early Friday afternoon, arrives at Iles-de-la-Madeleine late Sunday morning; high-season round-trip fare is about $517-$820 per person (less for seniors and children) plus $148 per vehicle. The return boat leaves the islands Tuesday evening and arrives in Montreal Thursday afternoon.

Where to stay: Dominique Gagnon, Au Salange, 88 Chemin de l'Anse à Damasse, Havre-aux- Maisons, Iles-de-la-Madeleine, Quebec G0B 1B0; (418) 969- 4322, fax (418) 969-4321, The islands' only four-star B&B. From about $56 double with breakfast.

L'Aquarelle B&B, 66 Chemin des Fumoirs, Havre-Aubert, Iles-de-la-Madeleine, Quebec G0B 1J0; (418) 937-5908, e-mail Summer rates from about $40 double with breakfast; off-season from $31.

International Youth Hostel, 74 Chemin du Camping, Etang-du-Nord, Iles-de-la-Madeleine, Quebec G0B 1B0; (418) 986-4505, fax (418) 986-4523, Camping from about $9; hostel $15 per person with breakfast.

Where to eat: La Table des Roy, 1188 Chemin Lavernière, Etang-du-Nord, Iles-de-la- Madeleine, Quebec G0B 1E0; (418) 986-3004, http://www.ilesdela Table d'hôte (three courses with coffee), $25. Open June through September.

Auberge de la Petite Baie, 187 Route 199, Havre-aux-Maisons, Iles-de-la-Madeleine, Quebec G0B 1K0; (418) 969-4073, fax (418) 969-4900, Evening specials start at $18; entrees from $10.

For more information: Iles-de-la-Madeleine Tourism Assn., Box 1028, Cap-aux-Meules, Iles-de-la-Madeleine, Quebec G0B 1B0; (418) 986-2245, fax (418) 986-2327,

Canadian Tourism Commission, 550 S. Hope St., 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90071; (213) 346- 2700, fax (213) 346-2785,