THE BEST WAY
From LAX, Air France, Air Tahiti Nui, American, British Airways, KLM, Lufthansa, Swiss and United have connecting service. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $617 on Air France, $1,115 on the other airlines.
To reach Belgrade, rent a car or catch one of the regular buses from the airport to the city.
To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 381 (the country code for Serbia), 11 (city code for Belgrade) and the local number.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Moskva, 1 Balkanska; 268-6255, www.hotelmoskva.co.yu. It doesn't get any more stately than this Secession- era building that overlooks the Terazije Fountain and one of the city's main pedestrian thoroughfares. Doubles from $175, with breakfast.
Hotel Admiral Club, 31 Venizelosova; 303-8262, www.admiralhotebelgrade.com. Recently reopened, this classy 1935 villa is in the hip Dorcol district. Doubles from $278, with breakfast.
Le Petit Piaf, 34 Skadarska; 3035252, www.petitpiaf.com. A cozy retreat from the city's bustle. Doubles from $208.
Hotel Royal, 56 Kralja Petra; 2634222, www.hotelroyal.co.yu. A modest hotel and one of Belgrade's oldest. It lies just around the corner from the popular shopping street Knez Mihailova. Doubles from $63.
WHERE TO EAT
Klub Knjizevnika, 7 Francuska; 2627931. Classy and affordable, this place serves traditional Serbian fare and has a garden to dine in when the weather is good. Meals from $10.
Ikki Sushi Bar, 46 Gospodar Jovanova;
www.ikkibar.com. A couple of years ago, this was the place to eat sushi in Belgrade. Competition has sprung up since, but locals still favor Ikki's teriyaki salmon. Plates from $12.
Vuk, 12 Vuka Karadzica; www.restoranvuk.com. A traditional place offering quality Serbian and Balkan fare (prepare yourself for some meat). Meals from $10.
Langouste, 29 Kosancicev Venac; 3283680. Pricey, stylish restaurant has a great view across the Sava and Danube rivers. Cuisine includes Mediterranean and pan-Balkan. Meals from $18.
TO LEARN MORE
National Tourist Organization of Serbia, www.serbia-tourism.org.