Travel

Southern California Close-Ups: Venice, Santa Monica, Malibu

You could spend a solid year sniffing out cool spots for travelers in Venice, Santa Monica, Pacific Palisades and Malibu — scores of hotels, hundreds of restaurants and bars, more than 30 miles of coastline. But you're new to the scene, or you haven't visited in a while, and who has a year anyway?

We offer the seventh installment of our yearlong series of Southern California close-ups — 11 micro-itineraries that will lead you to fresh fruit, ancient art, pub darts, magic, gymnastics, Venus on roller skates and J. Paul Getty on how to be rich. (You can find our six previous destination micro-itineraries for Los Angeles and Orange counties at latimes.com/socalcloseups.) They'll work for you or for your out-of-town guests.


1. Veni, Vidi, Venice. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times )

That's a loose Latin paraphrase for: "I came, I saw and, boy, are we a long way from Burbank." Venice lies just south of Santa Monica and left of the American mainstream — artsy, edgy, defiant and occasionally downright dissolute. Check out Ocean Front Walk on a weekend morning and bring a fistful of dollar bills to tip the street musicians, magicians and all-around characters. Don't miss the mural of Venus on roller skates, near Speedway and Windward Avenue. (Maybe you've already seen it, in the Steve Martin movie "L.A. Story.") See too the careening teens at the Venice Skate Park, the cyclists on the meandering beach bike path, and the serious pick-up games on the basketball courts. There will be something to amuse you and something to offend you. (Perhaps the cheeky young man seeking contributions for penis-reduction surgery?) Venice-lovers embrace it as the weirdness capital of Southern California, if not North America. Others take one look at the grit and graffiti and ask: What's so special about beachfront urban blight and cheap sunglasses? Before you pass judgment, inspect the canals just south of South Venice Boulevard and survey the ambitious restaurants, galleries and shops along Abbot Kinney Boulevard. After you check into the playful but grown-up-oriented Hotel Erwin — where singing a song at the front desk may get you an upgrade — you can get a drink at the rooftop bar. It doesn't have a pool, but step across Pacific Avenue to Mao's Kitchen for a $9 bowl of noodle soup almost large enough to swim in.


2. Sweet swimming on a tight budget. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times )

For a memorable pool or a base camp for a beach day with the kids, head to 415 Pacific Coast Highway. There, by wide, sandy Santa Monica beach, William Randolph Hearst in the late 1920s built a vast mansion for his mistress, actress Marion Davies. These days, only the big marble-edged pool and guesthouse remain, joined by a sleek complex of changing rooms, fitness equipment and special-event spaces that was completed in 2009. It's known as the Annenberg Community Beach House. It's run by the city of Santa Monica, and it's probably the best-looking municipal pool you've ever seen. Though much of the 5-acre facility operates year round, the pool opens only in summer, accepting walk-up guests and reservations (up to three days in advance), its water (4 to 8 feet deep) heated to 80-85 degrees. Lots of moms and tots. There's a cafe, a cool little playground, a summer-only fitness room (which costs extra), beach volleyball, beach tennis, a pair of beach soccer fields and rentable space for parties. A day of pool access (10 a.m.-6 p.m.) costs $10 for adults and $4 for kids 1-17). On most Mondays, that price drops to $1 for adults and kids and the pool stays open until 8 p.m. Because demand can be high, you should show up around 8:30 a.m. with a towel and swimsuit. Pay the $8-$10 to park your car all day, or park your bike free at one of the racks. Then head for breakfast at the neighboring Back on the Beach Cafe (8 a.m.-8 p.m.). When the pool admission window opens at 9:30, you buy your passes, and when the pool opens at 10, you're ready.


3. Pier people, parallel bars and prawns. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times )

You can't overlook the Santa Monica Pier. It starts where Colorado Avenue stops, it dates to 1909 and its Pacific Park amusement zone includes the world's first solar-powered Ferris wheel. You'll find plenty of junk food, several restaurants, free live music on Thursday nights in summer and abundant people-watching at all hours. This is Southern California's Coney Island. You'll also notice the bike trail that runs past the pier — it goes north to Temescal Canyon, south to Washington Boulevard in Venice — 8 1/2 miles in all. If you don't mind navigating around Marina del Rey, you can rejoin the beach and pedal to Torrance, about 18 miles south of the Santa Monica Pier. The Spokes 'n Stuff Bicycle Shop (1715 Ocean Front Walk) is ready with rentals at $22 a day for a grown-up's bike. But before you roll anywhere, stroll over to Muscle Beach, just south of the pier, where dozens of regulars perform gymnastic feats of strength, grace and daring on rings, ropes and parallel bars. Once upon a time, Jack LaLanne hung out here. Ask nicely, and they'll literally show you the ropes. Then head a few blocks north to 1355 Ocean Ave. for seafood at BP Oysterette. (The initials stand for Blue Plate, not British Petroleum.) Then bed down for the night just a block away, behind the blue Art Deco facade of the historic but relatively affordable Georgian Hotel (1415 Ocean Ave.).


4. Retail, produce, magic, beer and darts. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times )

You know that Santa Monica's Third Street Promenade isn't as trendy as it was 20 years ago. You understand that Santa Monica Place, a mall that reopened at the south end of the promenade after a major rehab in 2010, generates more retail heat these days. So you do both, because pedestrianism is next to godliness, because the promenade's street performers are good and plentiful, because a serious farmers market sets up at Arizona and 3rd on Wednesday and Saturday mornings and because there are plenty of distinctive non-national enterprises nearby. Hennessey + Ingalls Art & Architecture Bookstore at 214 Wilshire Blvd., for instance. Or Magicopolis (1418 4th St.) with its weekend magic shows. And don't forget Ye Olde King's Head pub (116 Santa Monica Blvd.) with its British beers, twin dartboards and devoted expats.


5. Let's face it, you're cheap. (Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times )

Just a block off the Third Street Promenade, at 1436 2nd St., is Hostelling International Santa Monica, a 260-bed haven built in 1990 for frugal, youngish travelers, and later upgraded. Don't expect a pool or much privacy; all hostel options involve shared bathrooms, from the nine private rooms (most $159 a night) to the $36 dorm-room beds. Especially for younger travelers without children, the place has an agreeable global collegiate buzz.


6. Then again, you may be rich. (Casa Del Mar )

If so, Santa Monica hoteliers are ready for you. Prove your cool by choosing the historic grandeur of the beachfront Casa del Mar, a redone '20s building with cool tile, big views from its upstairs bar and brochure rates that begin at $565 a night. Or, for a comparable price, hop across Pico Boulevard to Shutters on the Beach, which looks like a New England beach house that just kept growing and seems to draw more celebrities (even though the same owners control both hotels). Another option, of course, is saving a few hundred dollars and staying at Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel (a block up from the beach, palm trees inside its five-story atrium) or using Marriott Rewards points at nearby Le Merigot. With the money you save, you can buy one round of drinks at Casa del Mar, another at Shutters and round out the night with cotton candy on the pier.


7. Sweat, then shop. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times )

Check in at Santa Monica's venerable Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows, grab a table overlooking the pool and dig into an early dinner at Fig, an in-house bistro that focuses on seasonal dishes. Splurge on the carbohydrates, because you'll be up and out early the next morning in your workout wear, walking, jogging or pedaling 1.3 miles along Palisades Park to the public stairways on Adelaide Drive near 4th Street, a.k.a. the Santa Monica Stairs. You'll find the stairs easily enough — one set is concrete, one is wood, and they'll be surrounded by fitness fiends panting, stretching, kvetching and primping, which occasionally annoys the well-heeled neighbors. You'll see the young and beautiful, the old and resolute, and probably a guy with boxing gloves. Once you've retired to the hotel and freshened up, head for nearby Montana Avenue, where dozens of high-end boutiques, service businesses and restaurants are arrayed from 7th to 17th streets. Get breakfast or lunch at Café Montana (at 15th Street) or Babalu Bakery & Restaurant (at 10th Street). Families won't want to miss Every Picture Tells a Story, the charming children's bookshop and art gallery at 1333 Montana Ave.


8. Art and music, all day and into the night. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times )

Once upon a time, in the 19th century, Santa Monica's Bergamot Station (2525 Michigan Ave.) was a rail yard. But ever since its revival as a cluster of galleries in 1994, it has been a treasured spot for one-stop art browsing. Along with contemporary painting and sculpture, you'll find a lot of photography, a few artsy shops, a well-shaded patio cafe for lunch or a snack, and the Santa Monica Museum of Art. There's your afternoon. Then head to McCabe's, a beloved music shop and concert venue at 3101 Pico Blvd. The shop is more than 50 years old and has served as a clubhouse of sorts for Jackson Browne, Ry Cooder and many other Los Angeles musicians. Live shows, often acoustic and often Americana, happen on Friday, Saturday and Sunday in the guitar showroom, which holds 150 fold-up chairs and some of the city's most discriminating (yet enthusiastic) audiences. (This summer's bookings included John Doe & Jill Sobule and J.D. Souther in July, with David Bromberg due Friday and Saturday.) For food, it's a two-block walk to the trendy Upper West restaurant and bar (3321 Pico Blvd.). Or go three blocks west and try the throwback Googie diner Rae's (2901 Pico Blvd.; open until 9 p.m.), which is as old and weathered as Upper West is shiny and new. If the evening gets late, the Travelodge Santa Monica awaits across the street from McCabe's at 3102 Pico Blvd. It's not fancy, but rates start at less than $150 and parking is free.


9. The Getty Villa. (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times )

The Romans, the Greeks, the Etruscans — they're all here in Pacific Palisades, surrounded by gardens that have matured nicely since the villa's grand reopening in 2006 after a massive redo. The site is as intimate as the Getty Center in Brentwood is epic — the gardens, galleries and open-air theater all crowded together in a canyon near the sea just south of Malibu. Do lunch in the cafe (open 11 a.m.-4 p.m., Thursdays-Mondays). Cool gift shop too, with art books and prints, jewelry, pinhole cameras, mood pencils (69 cents each), "The Complete Dead Sea Scrolls in English" ($20 in Penguin paperback), and, admit it, your secret favorite item, J. Paul Getty's 1965 book, "How to Be Rich" ($6.99, paperback).


10. The Malibu quartet. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times )

First, acknowledge that you underestimated the size of Malibu. Twenty-seven miles of coastline! But at about 23000 Pacific Coast Highway (about 12 miles from the Santa Monica Pier), you will find a handy foursome. First, the Malibu Pier, where you might buy bait (really, you could) or have a bite at the Beachcomber Cafe. Next, a few hundred yards farther up the beach, have a look at the Malibu Lagoon and imagine living in the Adamson House, a classic Spanish-style beach home that's now part of the state park system. (There are tours of the interior too, offered 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Wednesdays-Saturdays; guided tours of the house are $7 per adult and $2 for those 6-16.) Jump in the ocean if you like. Then head back to the pier and beyond to the Malibu Beach Inn. If you can afford the splurge ($325 a night and up), every one of its 46 rooms has a wide ocean view. If you can't spend that much, you can still eye the view over a meal in the hotel's Carbon Beach Club restaurant. (Just remember, non-hotel guests must reserve in advance.)


11. Cove, sand, café. Simple. Right? (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times )

Out-of-towners, beware. If you ask a local for tips on the best beaches in Malibu, you risk drowning in a sea of beach-bum bombast and legal disputes over what's public and what isn't, where to park, the shape of the waves, the clarity of the water, the rights of wealthy beach-dwellers and who lives in that big, ugly house over there, anyway? Zuma Beach County Park (near 30000 Pacific Coast Highway) is big and sandy. El Matador State Beach (32215 Pacific Coast Highway) is smaller, harder to reach, edged by cliffs and caves — and gorgeous. The state Coastal Commission and Los Angeles Urban Rangers will tell you much more about dozens of others at http://www.coastal.ca.gov/access/MalibuGuide2010.pdf. Or you could do the shallow thing and head for the trailer park from "The Rockford Files" and "Baywatch." Paradise Cove, a hefty 18 miles up the coast from the Santa Monica Pier, is home to a busy cafe, tiny pier and one of the state's ritziest mobile-home parks. It's a star on big and little screens ("Gidget" and "The O.C." are also among its credits), so if you have come to California with tourist fantasies about the perfect little beach, this could fill the bill. Gentle waves, handsome bluffs, fine sand, beach toys aplenty, lifeguard at the ready, legions of armchairs lined up beneath an array of palapas. Many locals scoff, because it can get crowded, and because dogs, surfboards and barbecues are banned. Also, the cost of parking in the private lot jumps from $3 (for four hours) to $25 if you don't spend at least $20 at the cafe. But if you reserve your lunch well ahead and show up early, and it isn't 100 degrees in the San Fernando Valley that day, you just might have paradise your way.

christopher.reynolds@latimes.com

Copyright © 2014, Los Angeles Times
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