Rincon beckons visitors to Puerto Rico’s west coast

When the World Surfing competition came to Puerto Rico in 1968, Rincon wasn’t even a dot on most maps of the island. But that November, competitive surfers from around the world descended on the tiny west coast town, along with film crews for ABC-TV’s “Wide World of Sports,” which was covering the sport for the first time.

In an instant, Rincon was transformed. Every year afterward, surfers began to flock there between November and April when waves peaked at 25 and 30 feet, and a rustic assortment of bunkhouses, fish shacks and watering holes opened up to serve them.

But then an interesting thing happened. As surfers began aging out of the sport, they continued to come, and they brought with them the carefree party vibe of their youth. That blended nicely with the endless flow of young surfers who continued to arrive. The result? A transient population of multigenerational water sports enthusiasts who play hard all day in the ocean and all night in the bars.

Over time, a few upscale hotels and restaurants came into the area to serve older tourists with fatter wallets and more discerning tastes, but the town retains a rough-around-the-edges, laid-back vibe that appeals to a bohemian crowd of all ages.

Surfing remains the No. 1 attraction. Rincon Surf School, which offers private and group instruction, is a great place to start for beginners. Or stop by one of the surf shops, like Mar Azul, to pick up a map of surf spots and hit the water. Sandy Beach and Parking Lot are recommended for beginners, thanks to their sandy bottoms and 6-foot swells; Tres Palmas is for experienced surfers who can master big waves and the rocky reef bottom.

But surfing isn’t the only water sport in town. Rincon is a major diving and snorkeling destination, too. Taino Divers offers daily tours to Desecheo Island and local reefs for beginning and experienced divers and snorkelers. Taino also offers sunset and whale watching tours, as well as offshore fishing and bluewater hunting charters for wahoo, tuna and mahi-mahi.

Stand-up paddle boarding and parasailing are also available, as is horseback riding for landlubbers.

Whatever you do during the day, be sure to wrap it up in time for sunset because watching that flaming yellow ball drop into the ocean is a major social event in Rincon. The large outdoor bar at Calypso Cafe at Maria’s Beach is a popular spot for sunset watching, thanks to its economical happy hour prices: $2 for cans of Medalla beer and $5 for plastic cups of rum punch.

But the premier spot for sunset watching is the large, oceanfront patio at La Copa Llena at the Black Eagle. Not only does it have the best view in town, but while you watch the show, you can sip a basil mojito and nosh on small plates of chargrilled octopus and mahi croquetas, or stay for dinner and dine on whole fried snapper or churrasco.

Once darkness falls, the surfing crowd usually heads over to Pool Bar, a dark wooded outdoor bar beside a small swimming pool and a large movie screen, which usually shows surf flicks. The older set might opt for a nightcap at Sea Glass Bar, a dark, cozy bar at the Lazy Parrot Inn. This terraced property features a full-service restaurant on street level, and a daytime poolside bar on the lowest level. But in the middle, tucked into a lushly landscaped garden lit with tiki torches, is this quiet spot where the bartender is knowledgeable and the conversation convivial.

For the late-night party crowd still raring to go, Shipwreck Bar & Grill is the place to go to close down the night. The covered patio bar beside Taino Divers looks like something Gilligan might have built, but the crowd tends to be colorful and garrulous, and the menu offers above-average pub fare, ideal for satisfying the midnight munchies.

That’s all during high season, of course.

The rest of the year, from May to October, the number of visitors dwindles, and many businesses reduce their hours or shut down altogether. Rincon turns back into a sleepy little town much like it was before the World Surfing competition arrived in 1968. Plenty of the locals probably prefer it that way, but there’s no turning back now, especially when the surf’s up.

IF YOU GO:

GETTING THERE: Fly Delta or Southwest Airlines to Luis Munoz Marin International Airport (SJU) in San Juan and drive 93 miles west to Rincon. Rent a car from a major agency, or try locally based Charlie Car Rental (www.charliecars.com), a well-run operation offering economical rates. The route is mostly over an expressway, called the autopista. Allow three hours for traffic and tolls (25 cents-$1.25).

Another option is to fly directly to the west coast into Rafael Hernandez Airport (BQN) in Aguadilla, just 12 miles from Rincon, but it requires flying from Jacksonville, Fla., on Jet Blue or Fort Lauderdale, Fla., on Spirit Air. National Car Rental and Charlie Car Rental have agents at the Aguadilla airport. The drive to Rincon takes about 30 minutes.

WHERE TO STAY:

La Rosa Inglesa / The English Rose. The quiet, three-unit B&B is a newly constructed, hilltop property with a tiny pool and gorgeous views. The restaurant serves the best breakfast in town, but don’t be discouraged by the long waits. Overnight guests get to cut to the front of the line. $125-$210, including full breakfast. Carr. 413 Int., km 2.0, Barrio Ensenada. 787-823-4032, https://www.rinconpuertoricobedandbreakfast.com.

Casa Islena Inn. An oceanfront, Spanish hacienda-style boutique hotel with nine spacious units and a swimming pool. $145-$205. Carr. 413 Int., km 4.8, Barrio Puntas. 787-823-1525, https://www.casa-islena.com.

WHERE TO EAT :

La Copa Llena at the Black Eagle. Chef Brendan Basham, the culinary wiz behind the Tapas Bar at Casa Islena Inn, has moved his operation to the former Black Eagle Restaurant, thereby pairing Rincon’s finest cuisine with the best oceanfront patio in town. Sip craft cocktails and dine on creative interpretations of Puerto Rican cuisine made with the freshest local ingredients. $2-$10, small plates; $24-$36, large plates. Black Eagle Marina, Carr. 413. 787-823-0896, https://www.attheblackeagle.com.

Das Alpen Cafe. It may seem odd to eat German cuisine in a tropical location, but it’s difficult to pass up authentic bratwurst, schnitzel and strudel this outstanding. An extensive list of craft and international beers is served. $13-$20, entrees. Rincon Plaza, 787-233-8009, https://www.dasalpencafe.com.

WATER SPORTS:

Rincon Surf School. Private lessons, group classes and guided adventures for beginners and experienced surfers. 787-823-0610, https://www.rinconsurfschool.com.

Mar Azul Surf Shop. Rent long boards, short boards and stand-up paddleboards by the day and week. Carr. 413, km 4.4, Barrio Puntas. 787-823-5692, https://www.puertorico surfinginfo.com.

Taino Divers. Offering diving and snorkeling tours for beginners and experts. Black Eagle Marina, Carr. 413, Barrio Ensenada. 787-823-6429, https://www.tainodivers.com.

NIGHTSPOTS

Calypso Cafe. Maria’s Beach. home.coqui.net/calypso/bar.htm.

Pool Bar. Sandy Beach. 787-823-2583, poolbarsushi.com.

Sea Glass Bar. Lazy Parrot Inn, Carr. 413, km 4.1, Barrio Puntas. 787-823-0101, https://www.lazyparrot.com.

Shipwreck Bar & Grill. Black Eagle Marina, Carr. 413, Barrio Ensenada. 787-823-0578, https://www.rinconshipwreck.com.

MORE INFORMATION: Tourism Association of Rincon. https://www.rincon.org.

Suzanne Van Atten is the author of “Moon Puerto Rico” and “Moon San Juan, Vieques & Culebra”: svanatten@ajc.com

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