La Loggia Passes the Aunt Emily Test

My Aunt Emily’s been in town this week, fussy as ever. She was not, believe me, entirely pleased when we pulled up in front of La Loggia, 11814 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 985-9222. “There’s nobody here,” she sniffed, “and you know how I hate an empty restaurant.” “It’s only been open a few days,” I protested. “And,” she went on, ignoring me completely, “it’s so small and so bare.” I’d call it spare, with its big windows looking onto the street, its open kitchen and its spattering of modern paintings adorning the walls.

Aunt Emily was slightly mollified by the warmth of the waiters. She unbent a little more when the waiter brought complimentary bruschetta to the table, the garlicky toast topped with chopped tomatoes. She had a glass of wine, indulged in a bowl of clams and mussels steamed in white wine and went on to a plate of pasta al pesto. Meanwhile I had a salad, a small pizza and a glass of wine.

“Not bad for a little neighborhood place,” Aunt Emily conceded. “If I lived around here I’d probably come again.” Then she glanced at the money I was putting on the table (it came to about $15 apiece) and looked annoyed. “I don’t know why you never take me to the expensive places,” she said.