Wine of the Week

Just in time for warmer weather, the 1999 white Burgundies are starting to arrive. Here is one that caught my fancy recently. The 1999 vintage typically gave ripe, round wines, but this tightly woven Chardonnay retains a firm backbone of acidity. It has the lightest hint of oak, a touch of citrus and a long minerally finish. It won’t show itself right away-sip it slowly, and by the second glass, its pearly beauty will come out of hiding.

About $39. Available at Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (800) 331-3005; Woodland Hills Wine Company in Woodland Hills, (800) 678-9463; and https://WinesPlus.com. If you can’t find the wine, have your local retailer call the importer, North Berkeley Wines, (800) 266-6585.