Counter service

Who can resist the lure of a good counter: the swift service, the feeling of camaraderie -- especially when you’re flying solo.

Jongewaard’s Bake & Broil

For all intents and purposes, Jongewaard’s is a coffee shop. But what a coffee shop. Consider the sandwich of freshly baked pot roast served with a side of horseradish cream: happiness on a French roll. For dessert, try a slice of chocolate layer cake or fruit pie.

* Sandwiches $4.85 to $8.45; slice of pie $2.15 to $3.45. 3697 Atlantic Ave., Long Beach; (562) 595-0396.

Sarita’s Pupuseria

The pupusas at this Grand Central Market stand are crisp on the outside, warm and soft within, and available with nearly a dozen fillings, including the classic revueltas (bits of pork, mild cheese and beans). Housemade curtido, the spicy cabbage accompaniment, is at the ready.

* Pupusas $2 each. 317 S. Broadway E-5, L.A.; (213) 626-6320.

Apple Pan

Many Angelenos consider this the spot for the city’s best burger. The mile-high egg salad and tuna salad sandwiches are top notch as well. Save room for apple pie a la mode or nicely chilled banana cream pie.

* Burgers, sandwiches $5.45 to $6.25; slice of pie $4 to $4.25. 10801 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A.; (310) 475-3585.

Soda Jerks

One of the few places where you can still get an authentic ice cream soda, malt phosphate or egg cream. This classic fountain also offers an extensive menu of burgers, sandwiches and salads.

* Sandwiches, salads $4.95 to $8.25; ice cream sodas, malts $3.70 to $4.75. 219 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena; (626) 583-8031.

Loteria

Soft tacos topped with lusty fillings such as pollo en pipian rojo (tender chicken in a spicy pumpkin seed sauce) are the specialty at this popular Farmers Market eatery. Wash ‘em down with a tall glass of fresh watermelon juice.

* Tacos $2.35 to $2.55; burritos $6.95 to $7.55. 6333 W. 3rd St., Stall No. 322, L.A.; (323) 930-2211.

The Counter

The idea here is: Build your own burger. Start with a beef, turkey or veggie patty. Then choose from dozens of extras. Or try one of the signature burgers, say, the Old School: a beefy burger topped with Tillamook cheddar and all the accouterments on a grilled bun.

* Burgers $6.25 to $11. 2901 Ocean Park Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 399-8383.